We’ve been needlefelting at the Well-Being Centre. We started last week when there were just a few of us. One of the members liked this painting of ducks that is on the wall:
This was how far she’d got at the start of this week after doing a little of work after taking it home last week:
I think I’ve mentioned it’s a basement room with strange lights and 2 tiny windows, so the light isn’t great. I started an abstract piece using some of the dyed locks we have:
Some of them are commercial dyed BFL from World of Wool. This is a green one:
And, I think this is some dyed locks Lyn donated to us when we were first starting out:
These weren’t done at the centre, but one of the members brought them in. She was a really good sport about us laughing at her first attempt. And we weren’t being mean, we know it’s just at a stage where it looks comical:
She started on a different one, and liked how that progressed so did a little bit more:
I’m looking forward to seeing them finished! She also brought in a nuno sample she made a few weeks ago, at the same time I made mine, this is the blended 18.5 mic Merino side:
This is the front:
And this is a close up of the texture:
I’ll have updates of the needle felting next time 🙂
Last week I taught a Ruffle Neck Scarf workshop. This was the first time teaching it and it went very well. I was worried about the timing but it all worked out. I thought the class at the Mississippi Valley Textile Museum. They have a nice big classroom with lots of light. and water.
As usual, I forgot to take pictures early but here are two of them being laid out
You can see the template they used to get the layout right and keep it even from one end to the other. I drew it with the outline to follow and a line on them to let them know when they had shrunk enough.
Here they are using the plastic under their scarves to make nice edges.
And a shot of the class working.
Here are the results. I really like the ones where you can see the wool that migrated through the silk.
The Class was a lot of fun. I made the written instructions more detailed than normal because I want to make it a kit. If I ever figure out video iI would like to make an online workshop. If you were to buy a kit for a ruffled scarf would you want it to be a short neck scarf or a long scarf? the only difference really would be the amount of wool included and the length of silk. I was thinking a short scarf but include the sizing to make a longer template too. I am wondering about the template I usually use thick plastic to draw it on. but it is too bulky to fold flat and too big to ship cheaply rolled up. Should I include a template on thinner plastic or just the instructions on how to draw it up on whatever you want to use?
Believe it or not, 2018 is coming to a close and the last of my online classes for 2018 begins on October 5, 2018. There are four different modules that are all about experimentation with mixed media techniques creating surface design on felt. Each class is 4 weeks in length with an extra 2 weeks of instructor support at the end of the 4 weeks. The classes are only $45 US with PDF information and videos presented each of the 4 weeks. There is a ton of information packed into the 4 weeks so it’s a great bargain. Anyone from anywhere in the world can take these courses, no need to show up at a certain time (you can even wear your pajamas).
The first module is called Nuno Felting with Paper Fabric Lamination. You will learn the technique of Paper Fabric Lamination and then how to use these pieces in nuno felting.
The second module is Experimental Screen Printing on Felt.
The samples above were created by former students in the screen printing class. You will also be able to use these techniques to screen print fabric such as silk to use in nuno felting. These same techniques can also be used on cotton fabric to use in fabric collage or quilting. You will learn how to create thickened dye, make your own screens and many ways to use these screens in an experimental approach. Click here for more information about Screen Printing and to register for this class.
The third module is Printing, Stenciling, and Playing with Thickened Dye on Felt.
(Photos above by a former student.) This one is really fun and experimental. Learn to make stamps, stencils and how to use a variety of objects from around the house to create your own unique surface design on felt. Develop your own style with designs you have created. The techniques you learn in this class can be used for felt, other fabric types and even paper. The stamps and stencils can be re-used over and over and applied in different ways to create exciting patterns. Click here for more information about Print, Stencil, and Play with Thickened Dye on Felt and to register for the class.
The last module in the series is Free Motion Machine Stitching on Felt.
In this course, you will learn the basics of free motion machine stitching and how to use this specifically on felted projects. Does the thought of machine stitching seem a bit scary? If so, you should take this course to get a handle on how to use your sewing machine to create wonderful embellishments on felt paintings or other felted items. We’ll start with how to set up the machine and some great practice techniques that will build your skill level until you feel comfortable with your machine. Then you’ll learn about machine lace, thread sketching and how to incorporate machine stitching into felt paintings. Click here for more about Free Motion Machine Stitching on Felt and to register for the class.
I hope you want to expand your fiber art skills. If so, click on any of the links above to read more about the classes, see the supply lists and to register. I look forward to “seeing” you in class!
And don’t forget, if you are a beginner, our online class Wet Felting for Beginners is always available.
This class teaches you all about wet felting. You’ll learn how to make a piece of felt, how shrinkage works and how to calculate it and the basics of felting, fulling and creating felt from wool fiber. Click here for more information and to sign up.
This weekend sees the launch of the latest body of work by Lincolnshire based textile group LINQS. The group, which welcomes any gender and any ability, is now in its fourth year. The only criteria for becoming a member is that you must reside in the county of Lincolnshire. Members are given an annual challenge to make a quilt, or quilts, based on a particular famous person, place or theme. It was being invited to join LINQS in 2014 that first got me started on the path to textile art so I have a lot to thank them for!
Our first challenge was Inspired by David Hockney. The group had a terrific response from local ladies and secured a national tour with Grosvenor Shows with our quilts being displayed up and down the country. Our work visited venues from Ardingley in the south to Edinburgh in the north and various places in between.
These are just a tiny number of the quilts in the first exhibition…..
By Wendy SkinnerBy Mary JacksonBy Textile LincsBy Carol Parkinson
Being completely new to this medium I was fired with enthusiasm and produced four quilts. The first was a small black and white take on the painting “Woldgate Woods”….
My next attempt was based on a photograph taken by the river in Horncastle, keeping with Hockneys recurring theme of “trees”.
The third one was my take on a 1954 mixed Media self-portrait….
By now I was gaining confidence and moved on from making small quilts (30cm x 40cm) to making my fifth quilt which was 30” x 40”…..
The following year it was decided that in future we would make our person, place or thing “Lincolnshire” based and Isaac Newton, being born in the county, was selected. These are a few of the quilts from that show created by four of the members…..
By Karen LaneBy Mary JacksonBy Jean Proud
By Pat Cave
Our third challenge was to make quilts inspired by the famous Botanist and Explorer Sir Joseph Banks whose family estate was at Revesby. The first showing of this body of work will be this Friday at “The Village”, Lincolnshire’s only living museum, which is in Skegness.
Banks became the president of the Royal Society in 1777, where he remained until his death in 1820. He was known as a prominent endorser of travelers and scientific men. Many voyages of discovery were approved and carried out under his supervision. He was the first person to introduce the Western world to acacia, mimosa, eucalyptus and Banksia, a genus named after him. About 80 other species of plants were also named after him.
While researching Banks I came across an image of a Banksia Seed Pod which had been charred in a bush fire. Anyone who knows my preferred colour palette will recognise why this provided the inspiration I needed for my Banks quilt!
I began by making a background using cotton fabric and painted tea bag paper……
Next came the individual “pods” (no idea of the proper technical term for these bits!) which were cut from painted interfacing free machine embroidered and wadded with thick felt…..
The main body of the Seed Pod was wet Felted Norwegian fibres, free motion stitched before adding the “bits” on top. My finished piece measures 48cm x 30cm.
I can‘t show you anyone else’s work as I don’t have photos as yet but if you are in the Skeggy area this weekend why not drop in and see them for yourself. For everyone else I will post an update very soon.
This is probably going to be the least informative post I’ve ever done, but it has nice pics! A while ago, Cathy sent me some wool and fabric which she’d dyed with natural/plant dyes. I tend to be a little bit ‘messy’ and had misplaced them, but found them last weekend. I took them with me to the well-being centre and made a piece of felt with some English 56’s and lots of the wool and locks Cathy sent. Unfortunately, I forgot to write down what I used and left everything at the centre, so I will edit the post once I get the info! So, this is the finished piece with all the samples:
On a bit of an angle to see the textures more:
Closer along the surface to see the locks:
These grey locks looked really silvery:
This rose coloured wool had a nice rich colour:
I think this was Indigo dyed, I wish I’d used more of this:
I love the colour of these locks, I think they were Turmeric dyed:
How gorgeous are these, with the rich yellow and subtle orange, and gorgeous sheen?
I don’t think these locks had been dyed, I love ones like this, with small, tight crimp, they remind me of crinkle-cut chips!
I think these are the same as the Turmeric dyed ones, but natural:
Sorry, for the complete lack of info! But I hope you enjoyed the pics 🙂 One thing I can tell you is that none of the wools I used lost any colour.
Heres another throw back post. I thought if I do not remember doing this maybe you won’t either. I hope you like it.
After seeing Ruth’s jacket it reminded me I had made a small one for one of my daughter’s dolls years ago. I thought I should give it another try but life size this time. I thought about doing it seamless but decided that it would make something that is a simple design into something complicated. Although I am not a great sewer I was sure sewing 2 straight seems on my machine should not be beyond me.
There are quite a few pictures so I have put them in a gallery for ease of viewing. If I could figure out how to post pictures side by side or in groups I would but that is beyond my skill level.
First I made a large piece of nuno felt. I used silk gauze and merino wool. After it was finished I put it in a red dye bath. It came out quite nice. It’s hard to tell from the picture because my camera did not like the red at all. The one you see was the best of a bad lot.
The next thing to do was the shibori. I finger pleated the middle of the piece starting at one short end. I very carefully held it flat and tight while I tied it. The first tie is the hardest one. After that you just pleat it up tying every couple of inches. You don’t want to be too neat about it. If the pleats are to perfect you get straight lines. You want your pleats to be tight so some of the material will resist the dye in the second bath. This type of shibori is supposed to make a bark like pattern. I put the tied up piece in a purple dye bath hopping for a nice red purple to appear on my cloth. It came out black. After it was dry the gauze side had more of a purple look but still very dark.
I sewed up my jacket. I made the material far too wide so the jacket ends up long. The short sides overlapped a lot when folded up. I had to have long “lapels” to make it work. It is not a mistake it’s a design feature, just ask me :O) It is still to long for me. I think it may look good one someone who is tall and thin. Two things I am not.
All in all not a bad try. I’ve made another piece of nuno felt to try again, I made it narrower this time. Now I have to find the time to sew it up.
My art group hung our new exhibition which opens tonight at The Purple Pomegranate in Whitefish, MT USA at 6:00 pm mountain time. If you are in the area, you are cordially invited to the opening or come any time in September to see the exhibit.
We cleared out a space in the store to put up six panels. With five of us showing work, we need extra “wall space”.
Then we started on the back wall and hung Louise’s work.
Next up was hanging Deb’s work.
And then on to Paula.
Sally hung her work on one side of the panels.
And I hung my work up on the other side.
Here are some closer shots of Louise’s work.
Here is Deb’s artwork. Somehow, I didn’t get any closer views of Deb’s work. Sorry Deb!
And here are Paula’s pieces.
Here are Sally’s pieces. It’s impossible to take a photo of all the pieces at once on the panels as they are angled.
And here are my pieces.
We had a great time hanging the show and we hope it’s a success! Come on red dots 🙂
Small abstract seascapes are quick and easy to make. Just lay down some coloured horizontal lines and ‘hey presto’ the eye is tricked!
Make 3 base layers of wool fibres – start with a vertical layer so that the 3rd layer is vertical. Wet down the wool fibres then mark a horizon with a piece of thread.
The layout shown below was approximately 30 x 20cm (12″x 8″) and only Merino wool fibres were used.
You can just lay down horizontal, dry, coloured strips of wool fibres, but I prefer to wet the strips as I think the results are better.
The sample below shows 10 strips of merino wool fibres on a base layer of white (each colour was the same amount of fibres). The top 5 strips were pre-wetted and the bottom 5 strips were dry, and when placed on the base layer they looked identical. However, during felting the dry fibres have spread and the colour is not so intense. The pre-wetted fibres don’t spread so much and the colours stay vibrant.
To wet a strip of fibres, simply hold each end and saturate it in a bowl of soapy water. Then lift it out and run finger and thumb gently down the length.
To make the sky, start at the top with the darker colours then work downwards to the lighter ones. Go back over it putting in colours wherever you think they need to be!
To make the sea, start with the darker colours on the horizon (remember to remove the guide thread) and mirror some of the sky colours in the water then add a bit of headland.
Add a focal point. Perhaps a lighthouse or buildings or boats.
The focus for this seascape is a windfarm and the windmills were formed from very thin wisps of white merino wool fibres.
During the early felting the straggly bits on both sides of the piece of felt were trimmed and it became painfully obvious that the windmills looked more like drunken dancers, so they were removed!
When the felt was dry the windmills were added using white cotton perle embroidery thread – each windmill comprised a french knot and 4 long stitches.
I have a stash of frames bought from charity (thrift) shops and I had just the right one for ‘The Windfarm’.
This is a very quick and easy way to make a seascape and it will never be the same twice!
I was running out of ideas for a blog post since I haven’t had a chance to make or do anything this week, and Ruth suggested an Inspiration post. We’ve had a lot of rain recently, but actually had a couple of dry and even briefly sunny days so I went out in the garden to get some inspiration. I was hoping for a variety of colours and textures, but after a 3 1/2 month long heatwave, brown is the dominant colour in the garden! The first thing which caught my eye was a large teasel plant. The leaves at the base were really interesting:
This one has a spider on it too:
I got a photo of a whole seed head:
And a close up of the spiky edge:
One plant which does have some nice new growth is a large sedum I have. I rescued this from a house at the end of the street about 20 years ago when the previous owners moved out!
This has more interesting colours, the whole top will flower then turn deep red:
I don’t even remember this Centaurea (cornflower) flowering, but it has a really interesting seed-head. I don’t know if it’s just me, but it reminds me of owl feathers
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This is a common ‘weed’ in the UK, a Plantain (plantago). The little seeds look like oats:
I don’t know if you remember Ruth’s post about Fireweed (Chamaenerion angustifolium) recently, but I had quite a few really big ones in my garden, we call them Rosebay Willowherb here. Though I’ve just been looking it up on Wikipedia, and I might have actually had a related plant, the Great Willowherb (Epilobium hirsutum). Either way, both plants have really great seed pods, and seeds, here are some from mine:
The last plant I managed to get some nice photos of is my small Sage shrub. It has really texturey leaves, quite hairy too when they’re young, and they turn interesting colours if they die too:
I hope you enjoyed those photos, feel free to use any for inspiration, and if you do, it’d be great to see what you make!
I am teaching a class next week and needed to dye some more silk for embellishment.
I had looked in my silk box to see what I had and I seem to have a lot of green and not much pink/purple.
I use a variation on the scrunch dying I use for the scarf blanks. I soak the silk in a little soapy water to get them properly wet before dying.
I use just enough fibre reactive dye to cover the silk. Then leave it for about an hour and put the PH up (sodium carbonate) in. I mix the PH up one tablespoon for each cup of water including the water I am mixing it in. Then I let it sit for a few hours.
One of the colours I wanted was a nice brown but when I rinsed it all the brown stayed in the water and I had purple. I haven’t had that happen before.
This is what they look like after rinsing and squeezing all the water out, they look a mess.
After they are dry, they fluff up some, but still not very nice looking
Next, you shake them out a bit and give them a tug along their length. Now they are pretty. again. Now I have a good variety for my students to choose from. The top one is the one that should have been brown.
I think I am just about ready for the class. Just some plastic to cut and pack it all up.
This was how far she’d got at the start of this week after doing a little of work after taking it home last week:
I think I’ve mentioned it’s a basement room with strange lights and 2 tiny windows, so the light isn’t great. I started an abstract piece using some of the dyed locks we have:
Some of them are commercial dyed BFL from World of Wool. This is a green one:
And, I think this is some dyed locks Lyn donated to us when we were first starting out:
These weren’t done at the centre, but one of the members brought them in. She was a really good sport about us laughing at her first attempt. And we weren’t being mean, we know it’s just at a stage where it looks comical:
She started on a different one, and liked how that progressed so did a little bit more:
I’m looking forward to seeing them finished! She also brought in a nuno sample she made a few weeks ago, at the same time I made mine, this is the blended 18.5 mic Merino side:
This is the front:
And this is a close up of the texture:
I’ll have updates of the needle felting next time 🙂
