a tail/tale of a whale – part 2

a tail/tale of a whale – part 2

Part 2

(part 1 is here: https://feltingandfiberstudio.com/2026/09/02/a-tail-tale-of-a-whale-part-1/ ‎)

Saturday Morning, we had the car packed and we were driving south to Kempville. Stash-it fiber festival was on and you can imagine how tiny my stash of fiber is! i might need more. Glenn and i were early, and were first in line. It was a fun morning of photography and shopping. i will only so you a tiny bit so we can get back to the tale of the whale.

sign of sheep in a bag for stash it fiber festival vew into the gym that the sale is going to happen vew of part of the gym bag of alpaca fiber with sign saying touch me fiber and boxes of locks some having felting needles wool aplicay, dragon fly and interlocking cercle patterns needle felting kit to make sheep and other animals booth with fiber for sale snoozing husband My perches from the sale the paper bag unpacked to show the mostly blue fiber i perchused4.1- 4.11 sign, hall, shopping, Glenn snoozing, my loot!

As i collected mostly blue fibre, locks, a bit more silk, and interesting shots, Glenn looked around, read a book, and snoozed as he often dose at fiber festivals. After successful acquisitions, of fibre and photos, we headed off cross country to the cottage. it was a nice drive and different views of rocks, trees, cows, sheep, but no bison farm this route. We did eventually get to the cottage.

As i told you last post, the lower skin i had started needed a bit more rolling, then i let it dry overnight on the screen porch.

Sunday: In the morning i pleated the throat. I used the small sewing clips i had ordered on line, they were easy to use, but if you don’t have them, then pins or a basting stitch would have worked. I started pleating from the centre of the chin working out to both sides.  once i had the wrinkles positioned, it was time to pulled out the new steam iron, to iron the skins.

top vew of pleated skin Underside of pleated skin5.1-5.2) Pleating top and bottom

ironong under side skin ironing the upper skin, folding it in half length wise5.3-5.4) ironing un-pleated sections of lower skin and folding top in half

Once the skins were prepped, it was time to return to getting the shape of the whale more, whale like. I started working on the mouth, adding colour and considering options for baleens (they look like a hairy moustache inside the top jaw of the whale. There used to strain out water and keep in Krill) i had 2 options i was considering, Icelandic tog (the outer guard hairs) or Mohair. The mohair was more lustrous and  i thought the whale would like lustrous shiny white Baleens.  I didn’t have any of the stiffness i wanted. (i had purchased soft mohair, not old course unsalable mohair! Drat.)

Monday: Luckily Judy, one of my guild-mates, had some that was courser but not at all as un-sellable as i had been considering. She brought a small bag with her to the guild social. Unfortunately i got distracted with a set of weaving notes that had been donated to the guild and had to put the whale project aside to get some work done. with both dyslexia and discalcula (letters and numbers) its still rather amazing that i have been guild librarian for so long.

Monday evening, luck forsakes me: i should have suspected things would not continue so well. On my way home the engine light came on for my poor rather old car. We made it to the drive way and I got her comfortable in her spot under the big red maple tree.  i went in to email her Doctor to discover what is upsetting her…… hummm the computer is black and i don’t here the fan going…… i guess i will call the mechanics in the morning and see how fast i can get her fixed so i can take the computer in to the computer doctor.  DRAT!!!! luckily i had taken most of the photos for the first part of the blog on my camera or cell phone. I wonder where the old lap top went. I found it, but it needs updating and dose not have word or publisher. Drat.

Tuesday: Car Doctors made a house call, my car has problems with her temperature sensors, so she has developed menopause and is having hot flashes! That’s fixable, they just have to find the parts…. Luck is back, parts were found localy and she is running by the end of the day!

Wednesday: Glenn loaded the ailing, possibly dead, very old, very large, very heavy, tower desktop computer into the car and i drove to Kanata.  Yes they could check her out in about 3 days time.  A quick stop at the dollar store and back home to get some felting done.

All this bad luck was making me feel a bit glum and wondering what the 3rd thing would be. i called Glenn to give him an update and found he was on the way to see a doctor, not at work. (i suspected Glenn falling off some stairs while working, was likely bad thing #3 he heart his wrist and a few other spots but is recovering). Odd i just bot him an ice pack for his knee on the way home, but it will work for his wrist too.

Thursday: Ok, i am going to get some felting done before the weekend. Which is when i want to add the skins.  I collected the whale, my small bag of core wool, the laptop and my notes and climbed into bed to needle felt and work on the blog post (there are some advantages to a lap top and working in bed seems to be one of them). This is not the best place to needle felt but it was comfortable and i could watch midsummer murders and felt during commercials! Its is very important to keep track of your needle if you are felting in stupid locations like bed, so you don’t fall asleep and roll over onto the needle. Which i did not do, but i did drop it twice but found it both times in the sheets, it was even unbroken. After that i switched to a safer activity, I started to write the blog post. I was realizing not having word is a pain since i can’t save photos with the rite label from open office so its taking a lot longer. I kept working on the  blog post with the old laptop into Friday.

Saturday: We got up really early, Glenn loaded the car with whale parts, the lap top, and we headed for the cottage. The plan for today is to join the 2 wrapped armatures together and hopefully start to add the skins. Now that i have the courser mohair fiber i also need to add baleens.

top jaw adding fibr just past the eye which i will atach to the lower jaw adding fiber just behind the bump were the eye will go joining the upper and lower head near the eyes 6.1-6.3) adding fiber to position the upper and lower jaw so they work together (in case there is felted krill)

wrapping the body in core carded roving6.4-6.5) wrapping the whale to join the upper and lower armatures

I started by attaching fiber behind the eye bump to potion the jaw where i wanted it. Then wrapped the built up top and bottom armatures.  He or she seemed a bit thin in spots so a bit more fiber was added.

adding more fibr along sides of body6.6) adding a bit more width to the whale body

They seemed more whale like, so i was distracted by there mouth and started adding the mohair as baleens.  This Mohair is quite course so even using a 36T needle they stuck better with a thin bit of carded core wool to help hold them into the jaw. It works like glue or a staple as you sometimes would when adding a top coat to a figure. I added a few folded layers of mohair then trimmed them to try to get the angle i could see in the picture. I probably should have worked with tinier sections as i worked toward the soft pallet.  But i was getting excited to start working on adding the skins. I left the rest of the baleens long, (un-trimmed), and will trim them when i have the skins on.

a better look at the brush/comb tool. felting needle adjacent for scale vewing the upper mouth and eye brow brush i used to brush the mohair whale mouth propped open with eye brow brush7.1- 7.3) adding the mohair baleens

I got to use my “eyebrow brush” on the baleens it worked wonderfully. I alternated between the tiny comb and the tiny brush sides. I don’t think the whale wants me to use the eye shadow applicator end. I may try a bit of hair spray if I cant get the curl turning the direction I want. I wonder if they make tiny curling irons…. No don’t get distracted, stay focused, no on line shopping until I get this post finished!

I am reasonably pleased with the effect of the moustache like baleens. I will see if I can improve the effect with the blue whale, who will have a longer mouth so more baleens.

Adding the Skins:

Sara started with the upper skin, and then wrapped the lower skin around to meet or overlap it. I wanted to get the throat positioned first, so worked backwards to her method.

taking sewing clips out 8.1)  taking clips out of under skin

I used a few pins to position the nose and split for the tail. I had added extra width for the under side of the fins on both top and lower skin. so i put a pin in to position each side fin on the lower skin. Starting a the centre of the chin i worked felting down each side of the fist wrinkle.

using sewing pins to position the skin over the understructure working wrinkles down body8.2-8.3) chin placement and starting wrinkles

Sara’s whale has his mouth closed so Sara worked the skins between the upper and lower wires for the jaws. Since i wanted to show off his tung, i had the mouth open, so i needed to fit the wrinkles around the lip. A whales lip is smooth running along the mandible and the expansion wrinkles start just below that. Sort of like a set of pleated certens that can expand when needed. The expansion wrinkles can reach down to inferior to the lower fin on its back. I may go back and work on getting the lip correct but for the moment my whale is a mutant and has his wrinkles starting at the edge of the mouth.

I worked the wrinkles down the body alternating sides until i had pleated to the top of the “arms”, OK, fins. I had seen some of the wrinkle patterns had curved around the fin, so tried to make my wrinkles do that too. Then started to attach the fin cover skins, over the front bump tacking them down in between each bump.

8.4) fins and wrinkles and bumps

needs lips the wrinkles are not correct as lips8.5) the wrinkles extend past where they should be. 

i had to trim off a bit of skin-felt towards the tail fins, around the side, and tail fins. The skin worked quite well, especially for the wrinkle making. It made a smooth surface and is not heavily felted, it could be stretched to the rite shape.

When i got to the tail i started to add the skin over the wrapped wire, as Sara had suggested. It was not sitting well, and i didn’t like the shape. So i checked the reference photos, reshaped the wire, then added a thin amount of core wool between the armature for the tail to give a bit better support .

trimming wet felted skin overlay skin over tail armature cut felt just above base of tail pulled the skin back to reshape the armature needed a bit more support for the tail skin, shows added thin amount of fiber to tail new shape and about to add underside skin of tail9.1-9.5) photos of tail, tail fix and tail lower skin

I was quite please with the lower skin and other than the wrippily lips (8.5), it looks very whale like.

Adding the top skin:  The top skin was similar to the lower skin to work with.  It was a bit thinner and there was not as much extra felt to work with. Luckily I could ether stretch or patch the thin or short spots, to make the top fit the whale. Next time; make extra to allow for a bit more play. I used ether fiber cut from above the tail section or a bit of loose fiber under a thin edge to fill in the couple gaps along the side behind the arms.

laying the upper skin over the whale shape and using pins to hold it in posision starting at the center of the nose, using sewing pins to possion skin working from the nose, reaching the fins. close up of fin tip, i am useing both a bit of trimmed felt and loose fiber to fill in a short spot. fin close up showing bumps along leading edge 10.1-10.5) adding pins for placement, needle fleting down the skin.

I found the pins again help to position the skin. I had been using a T-36 needle and I found that it was excellent with the lower skin especially attaching the wrinkles. I think I should have switched to a finer needle for the top skin which was applied in a flatter way.

trimming skin to alow it to fit around lower body and tail showing underside working top skin around lower tail and tail10.6-10.7) cutting the skin to allow it to settle on top of the tale and lower body.

As with the upper skin, I trimmed the felt to allow the skin to fit over the body.  I extended the tail fin tips to give more feeling of the correct humpback whale tail shape.

stuffed frog with whale showing tail fins11.1) tail fin extension at outer tips with one of the frogs at the cottage.

I may still add a bit of scaring which is common in Humpback whales and possibly a bit more barnacles, but basically I am very happy with the results. It was time to call Glenn over to inspect the whale.

whale inspection, glenn holding whatle in hands as he looks at it whale inspection, glenn holding whatle in hands as he looks at it whale inspection, glenn holding whatle in hands as he looks at it glenn tickeles whale stumic11.2-11.5) whale inspection by Glenn 

I have to still add the eyes. i am not sure if i will felt them or use beads. in the mean time i have put a couple yellow sewing pins to position them.

from the size i think he or she will be a teen whale. i will add a few scars if he is older. i will know better when i have the Blue whale under-structure done.

I can already see a few changes i will be making in the next whale project in the armature. The most important will be moving the arm-fins to the top armature. I will also make the skins bigger to allow for more adjusting on the body and wait to make it after I have the armature fully fleshed out with wool. The density  and adjust-ability of felt-skin worked well, so I will try to make the same thin felt next time. I will need a bigger working table to do the layout and rolling. Maybe I will be social at a social and make whale skin, instead of focusing on the library?

i hope to have enough of the blue whale done to show you progress next post, if you are not worn out on whales? Have fun and keep felting.

Felted Lantern Workshop at Pinhey’s Point.

Felted Lantern Workshop at Pinhey’s Point.

A couple of weeks ago, I did a class at Pinheys Point Historical Site. It is a beautiful site.

Rob Huntley image for Visit Pinhey’s Point web page.

We set up in what was the ballroom. The room is about the same size as my living and dining room. Not what I think of as a ballroom, but I guess there was enough room even with the big dresses. If you’re not dancing, you have to stand in another room.

They had lots of fun picking wool colours and silk. They were a great group; they listened carefully and asked good questions.

I love how they are all so different.

Here are a couple of group shots in front of the window. I shows you better how they will look with light in them. They will all lighten as they dry, too.

 

I always enjoy this class; it’s only half a day, but it gives such great results.

 

Don’t forget: registration for the expanded 3D resist (book resist) class is open. Class starts September 26, 2026

https://feltingandfiberstudio.com/classes/3d-multi-part-resist/

 

Summer Symphony

Summer Symphony

I finished another nunofelted landscape in preparation for selling that last set I sent to the gallery (one can always hope). I looked through the remainder of the nunofelt pieces I have left from Paula and decided to make another piece with the autumnul colored one. I had planned on making more trees but decided I wanted to create echinacea flowers instead.

Nunofelted background (multicolor) with photos of echinacea placed on top.

I found some photos online and printed a bunch off, then cut the flowers out so I could figure out the sizes needed and a good arrangement. It also helps to make the petals and centers more lifelike otherwise the flowers end up looking too much alike.

I had found yellow hand dyed cotton fabric and a bit browner fabric for the centers. I also got out several shades of green for leaves and stems.

Nunofelted background (multicolor) with cut fabric in yellow and yellow brown representing echinacea flowers.

Once the pieces of applique fabric were cut out, I tried some stems with fabric but they were a bit too thick. So I tried out green yarn and decided to use it instead. I could couch the yarn down and make the stems with more curves much more easily than out of fabric.

Nunofelted background (multicolor) with flowers and stems stitched in place , leaves pinned, ready to stitch.

On to stitching, here the flowers are all appliqued down with matching cotton machine thread. I have also couched the stems down with matching thread. The leaves are cut and pinned in place.

Nunofelted background (multicolor) with appliqued flowers, leaves and stems stitched in place.

Yay, all stitched down. A bit of texture on the centers is needed with a graduation of color and a bit of darkness to add depth.

I used four different colors of hand dyed wool thread so it would look a bit more “furry”. The centers were stitched with a random cross stitch and straight stitches.

Next up, I wanted to see if stitching lines in the petals would be a good addition. So I cut another sample petal or two and tried some different thread with stem stitch to see what it looked like. It just didn’t seem to add enough to the petals for the amount of work it would take.

Nunofelted landscape featuring echinacea flowers on multicolored background stitched to green "matte" fabric and laced to matte board.

I decided it was finished. So I bought a piece of background fabric and stitched the nunofelt in place. The piece was finished as usual by lacing the green fabric around two pieces of matte board. It’s all ready to go to the framers when I have a few more pieces finished. I think my next project is to  make some smaller (5×7″) landscapes as I have sold a few of those from the gallery in Kalispell.

What have you been working on? We would love to see your projects, please upload them to our community page.

Doris the hedgehog and an autumn table mat

Doris the hedgehog and an autumn table mat

Lyn

The nights are drawing in and heralding autumn.  The leaves have started to fall and the plants are looking sad.
Gardeners will already be clearing away plant litter, but I urge them not to be too tidy – leave a little mess for our garden friends to shelter in or under.
We had a hedgehog hibernate under a mound of leaves in our garden and it inspired me write a ditty and felt a picture – it’s wet and needle felt with some hand stitching – 28x18cm (11”x7”).

DITTY FOR DORIS

I help you with your garden plants
I eat the slugs and snails and ants
So help me when it’s cold and bitter
Look closely when you rake the litter
Please check that I’m not in my bed
With fallen leaves around my head

Lyn

a hedgehog nestled under autumn leaves at the start of hibernation

Annie

I wanted a small but interesting textiles project to help me get back into the swing of making things again after a busy year has kept me from my fibres, and since autumn is my favourite season it seemed like a good subject!

I decided on a small table mat with an autumn leaves design.   I made a sample set of leaves but actually they might end up being the final ones.  I chopped up and arranged some small squares of open weave fabrics

loose weave fabrics for nuno felt

then flipped them over and laid corresponding colours of fibres over the fabrics so that I could felt it to prefelt and then cut my leaves from the prefelt.

colourful wool fibres to lay on loose weave fabric to make nuno felt

Leaves cut from the prefelt.

nuno felt cut into leaf shapes

Here’s a close up of three of the leaves.

Not sure what the next stage is but this is as far as I have got!

Registration for the expanded 3D Resist, aka a Book Resist, workshop is now open.

Registration for the expanded 3D Resist, aka a Book Resist, workshop is now open.

Registration for the expanded 3D resist, aka a book resist, opens today, September 5, 2026. The class runs from September 26 to Oct 31 2026.  Cost: $75 Canadian, approx. $54 US, $46 Euro, $39 Pounds, $75 Aus, $90 NZ.

This is now a two part course. The first part will show you how to make, assemble and use a 3d book resist. It will guide you step by step from building the multi-part resist to the finished piece and give you the skills to continue on to more fun with sculptures.

The second part of this course will be on design and testing.  This will save you fibre, time, and frustration when things don’t go the way you thought they would. It will show you how to test different shapes and cutting methods without making multiple felt samples. You will be able to assemble and test the concept, testing multiple assembly and cutting techniques. Then you will be able to move on to making a felt piece with confidence.

Here is a link to the materials list. You probably already have most of it. Material List for 3D resist workshop

Please join me for this expanded workshop and have fun learning some new skills.

Register here: https://feltingandfiberstudio.com/classes/3d-multi-part-resist/

 

Here are some pieces other students have made:

Renee 3D with balloon
Fay Starfish
Fay, Red six-leafed book resist vessel

 

 

 

a tail/tale of a whale – part 1

a tail/tale of a whale – part 1

Updated 08/31/26

I had such wonderful plans for the last two weeks of summer. 1; invite Ann to the cottage to relax and do some felting, 2; do some wet felting to add to some dry felting (while Ann was there, sort of like a life guard, to keep the water behaving), and 3; then finish up the first whale. So I suppose it’s not a surprise it is the tale of a whale, or a whale of a tale, I have for you today.

Like many of my plans, they often go astray. It started out fine, but my luck could not last.

3 weeks ago: I re-watched Sara’s humpback whale felt-along on YouTube, and had hours of fun researching both humpback and blue whales. I inadvertently found out a bit about a few other whales as I investigated. It is the way of research, so many rabbit holes to look into.

I followed Sara’s instructions for creating the armature… mostly, instead of a mix of 12 & 14g, I used 12g aluminum. She used coated floral wire to give extra strength and help the fibre hold to the armature. I had the unlabelled floral wire from Dollarama easily to hand, so I was liberal in its application. She had made the armature in 2 parts: the top of the head and body with tail, and the second armature had the lower jaw with side fins and body with 2 wires to add to the tail.

Black grocery box full of wire, fleting suplys and snacks sitting on black walker1.1) project box for whale project, 12g wire, un-gauged floral wire, tool kit, snacks

I wanted my whale to be able to open its mouth, so had research pictures of mouth interiors and how the expansion happens when it sifts water and krill through its mouth and out through the baleen (we will come back to those). Since Sara had an upper and lower jaw already with her armature, I went with what she had worked out for lengths and proportions.

Sara wrapped the upper and lower armatures separately with core wool, building the basic under structure. Then joined both half’s together and wrapped with more core wool.  she added the wet felted skin over the wrapped armature.  I had taken 2 days to make careful notes of what Sara had done, but as usual derailed and just used the photo-reference I had.  I spent most of a week puttering while adding the core wool and had much of the structure blocked in when, on Thursday, Ann arrived at the cottage.

Preamble: I really don’t like getting wet. It’s so, wet. If water were drier, I would be happier. I kept asking my Dad, a hydrogeologist, if he could invent dehydrated water. He seemed to think water was fine the way it was. (I asked him for a dinosaur when I was 3 or 4 and was told he was not that kind of geologist; at least asking him to fix water was on topic. Other than these minor failures, he was a fabulous dad.)

I had picked up a new 4′ long folding table with adjustable leg heights to work on. I had a new pool noodle and the wet felting kit I won from Marie at Living Felt (Texas).  Sara had done some per-blending for the upper layer of colours. I had an extensive selection of tones to work from, so I relied more on colour placement. The under layer for the darker top was a special blend from World of Wool, called “Indigo”; it is a fabulous blue-black, which I hoped would creep a bit into the upper layers.

thin wisps of indigo (which leaned heavily towords black) layed down in a harring bone oriantation.1.2)first layer of the upper skin (W.O.W. Indigo coriedale)

Watching Sara lay out her top layer was interesting. She said the felt skin should be thin so it would be adjustable with a bit of tugging when done. I remember Moy McKay wanting thinness in her wet felted landscapes so they could be needle felted and fit in the sewing machine. Multiple times Sara said “that’s it”, then added a bit more fibre. I wound up doing the exact same thing, “ah I think that’s it,…… no a bit more just here”. Even with my enthusiasm, I was still able to keep the felt fairly thin.

adding embelishments and colour for the second layer embelishments compleat ready to wet - ick1.31-1.32) Embellishments added to second layer of top skin, coriedale, silk, slubs, yarn and locks

Once the fibre for the skin was laid out, it was time to carefully add the soap and water, just enough to wet the wool but not the floor or me. I dampened the top layer of plastic and started to “gently caress the timid bunny”, or you can think of it as “lymphatic effleurage”, which is about the weight of a nickel in pressure.

checking stability of the felt stuffed big frog holding small blue disk with handle and small bumps, good gental rubbing tool Tupper ware lid has flutted surface slightly more aggressive rubbing surface1.41-checking felt integrity before switching to the wet felting tools;  1.42- photo of frog and rubbing tool, 1.43 -photo of tupper ware lid as rubbing tool)

Once the bunny is less timid and the fibre is starting to migrate, I switched to using the soft rubbing tool, then I used Ann’s Tupperware lid.

rolling felt around large diamiter pool noodle 1.5) Starting to roll the felt, flipping and rotating the skin regularly

When the felt was firmer, I could start rolling with my new extra-large pool noodle. A regular pool noodle would have worked too; I just didn’t have one at the cottage.   When I had rolled from each end and side, on both sides, it was time to gently drop the skin on the table. This is a gentle way to shock the fibres into further shrinking.

hand has let go and the felt is falling towords the table1.61)dropping to continue shrinkage

wet felted skin partly done whale armature sitting on top of wet skin1.62-1.63) top skin shrunk and checked with partly finished under structure.

I also did a bit of rolling and rubbing in specific directions to get the last bit of shrinkage I wanted. The skin is still quite thin but is also holding together nicely. It is time to set it aside and work on the lighter underbelly skin. Sara laid out and rolled both together, but I didn’t have a large enough table to do that, so it’s one side at a time.

Underside:

Sara’s lighter under layer was sort of the shape of a large mushroom. I started that way and add a bit more width at the top to allow more wrinkles. I had it layed out, had started to dampen the fiber when i changed my mind and added the “under arms”, OK, fins.

Ann had some grey and white fiber with little black flecks, i think it was from world of wool. i added a bit along the border where the two skins would join.

laying out the base layer in a harring bone pattern second layer of white & Grey, corrodale, silk, locks and slubs adding the under sides of the side fins, sara had not added them to her skin. close up of added fiber fiber layed out and preparing to roll after rubbing gently the fiber was ready to roll2.1-2.6) layout and wetting of the light lower skin

By the time i started rolling it was time for Ann to head home.  We cleaned up the porch a bit, closed up the cottage, and headed out. It had been great to have her company and i felt much braver with her keeping an eye on the sneaky water.

Ann and her dry balls ready to felt3) Ann had been Preparing dryer balls and had quite a few ready to go.

I still have more rolling to do on the under side skin but that will have to wait until i get back to the cottage.  i should let you have a brake and we can continue the whale saga next post.

Making a Blue Bird Feeder

Making a Blue Bird Feeder

The Ottawa Valley Weavers’ and Spinners’ Guild has an annual Sale and Exhibition. Every year there is a theme for the Exhibition.   This year and the next two years.  we are doing a section of the colour wheel. This year we are doing the blue section. We are taking it to the secondary colour on each side to give people the most scope to work with.

Wendy, the Coordinator of the Exhibition, also asked people to let her know if the piece was done in a class or was a class we teach. So, I made a blue bird feeder. It is a fun class. It is always more fun if it doesn’t have to fit anyone at the end.

I like to do a gourd shape, and with the blue theme, I used 4 shades of blue.

 

Then I picked out some of my blue handspun that has some sparkle in it. I created an all over random design that wrapped around onto the other side.

Then fixed the front so I could cut the hole without cutting the design.

You can see some of the yarn above the hole shifted while I was rolling. Impatience getting the better of me again. I may try to shift them a little with a felting needle.

these to great outside. My mother-in-law’s feeder was hanging outside for 3 years before the rope hanger broke. It was purple with orange locks. After 3 years, it was bluish grey from the sun. The chickadees in particular liked it.

Cyanotypes at Annual Art Retreat

Cyanotypes at Annual Art Retreat

My art group had our annual art retreat at Kiwanis Lodge on Little Bitterroot Lake in Marion, MT. This year we had decided to experiment with cyanotypes. We had actually done a bit of this a few years ago but hadn’t experimented with all the “extra” chemicals that you can add to change the colors and the way the prints developed. Luckily, the weather had cooled down, we got a bit of rain at the start of the weekend and the smoke cleared. Perfect weather to stay at the lodge.

We set up the tables with all our equipment and supplies. We were printing on paper and fabric. Cotton paper and natural fiber fabric seemed to work the best. Everyone brought different botanicals, some dried and flattened and others fresh. The first night we mixed up the cyanotype chemicals and painted our paper and fabric. These were dried in a room that didn’t have outdoor light which ended up being the bathroom. Once dry, the papers were stacked and kept under black paper to prevent sun exposure.

I used some transparencies I had printed in hopes of creating more tree spirit faces. However, I forgot that I needed these to be like a photo negative. I didn’t reverse the black and white so I ended up with some pretty spooky faces which you will see later. We used both the dry and wet methods. The dry method means that the cyanotype painted paper is covered with either botanicals or a printed transparency, covered with glass, clipped on the edges and placed in the sun. The top left photo shows the dry method getting it’s sunshine.

The wet method adds water and other “chemicals” to the mix. The painted fabric or paper is laid down. Here, Paula used feathers and placed them over the cyanotype paper. She then spritzed with water, watered down vinegar and watered down baking soda. With the pipette, she added some yellow pigment to the mix. Then she covered with glass, clamped the glass in place and put it out in the sun. You could also add bubbles or coarse salt to the wet surface.

Once it’s “cooked” in the sun, the piece is rinsed in water or water and hydrogen peroxide and the result is the typical blue cyanotype.

Here’s a video of rinsing the paper and seeing the change to blue.

Then, if you want a bit different look, you can “bleach” the paper in soda ash water. The picture on the left shows the paper from the video as it is put into the bleach bath and the one on the right is after bleaching it for a minute or two.

Cyanotype of face soaking in water rinse.

Here’s one of my creepy faces. Unfortunately, after I rinsed this one, I decided to bleach it. The cyanotype disappeared all together. I’m not sure if it was the previously screen printed surface that caused that or the type of fabric. Experimentation often lends itself to failures but you always learn new things.

Here’s some pieces drying. Some of the ones that have lots of brown were either previously eco printed or rusted.

 

Once the pieces were dry, then they could be bleached or toned. For toning we soaked in baths of pigment, tea, or coffee. That can add some background color. After the weekend was over, I kept getting all kinds of videos about using different substances to rinse or tone. Apparently, you can use nettles, madder root, citric acid and who knows what else. I am sure there are more options available. If you’re interested, there are loads of videos on Instagram and YouTube on cyanotype printing.

Cyanotype of face

Here’s one more creepy face for you. I have a few printed faces on paper and some on different types of fabric. I even printed on some lightweight, sheer silk so I will be trying a few cyanotypes with nuno felting.

The other interesting thing that happened was printing on these tea bags. The end result had a purple color that we couldn’t figure out where it came from. We used several different kinds of tea bag paper and this was the only brand that gave a purple print. I don’t remember the brand though so who knows if it’s repeatable.

Cyanotypes drying

I think it’s really interesting seeing these other colors develop with this type of printing. Cyanotype printing is so recognizable that I find it difficult to use in my work. I prefer methods that are more layered and difficult to recognize immediately.

Sunset on Little Bitterroot Lake

We had a great time as usual and it’s so wonderful to spend uninteruppted time creating with friends.

Felting in Arnesby & Yarn Bombing in Cosby

Felting in Arnesby & Yarn Bombing in Cosby

A few weeks ago I travelled down to Arnesby in Leicestershire to take part in the Feltmakers Region 8 annual Summer School. The name is a bit misleading as this isn’t a “tutored” gathering but more of a two day Play Day doing whatever takes your fancy. It’s just great to have the luxury of two whole days of uninterrupted felting and for me this would be my first felting project since March so I was particularly keen to make the most of it.

I knew I wanted to make something to display at a Coastal themed exhibition I’m taking part in September but hadn’t exactly planned what that was going to look like. So I dug out my tin of shells and chose a spiral one, covered in barnacles, to take with me as inspiration.

My initial thought was to create a vessel with a tiny opening in the base to remove the resist through. After working out the size I wanted my vessel to be I drew and cut out my resist, elongating the bottom section of the shell to give this more emphasis and more height.

By the time I’d finished my first coffee I’d changed my mind about what I was doing and decided the shape I’d drawn would lend itself nicely to being a lidded vessel. Its just as well I hadn’t got any fibre laid down yet!

The main body of the shell got laid out first and put to one side while I made the nuno prefelt to cut the craters from which would represent the barnacles.

I did wonder if that narrow base was going to prove a bad idea and whether I had the weight distribution right but by that point I was too invested so just had carry on and hope I could make it work!

This could have gone so wrong so it was a big relief to see it standing!

The finished vessel stands approx 45cm tall and is 25cm at its widest point.

After our first day of felting the friend I was staying with offered to drive three of us to Cosby, a village close by that stages an enormous themed yarn bomb. This years theme was “Round the World in 80 Displays”. The event happens every two years and the exhibits are in place for three weeks so we were lucky to catch the final evening before the displays were taken down. I can’t begin to describe the scale of this project! I’ve a friend who’s heavily involved so I’ve known of it for several years but it’s the first time I’ve visited and it surpassed all expectations!

The two leading lights behind this mega yarn bomb are Mel Charnock and Natalie Smith. These fun loving creatives have a passion for colour, textiles, jumble sales and people plus experience of TV & film costume styling, community events, visual merchandising, teaching better mental health & crafts for adults, not to mention a brief stint sewing gussets knickers! All of which led them to founding Gather Create Grow CIC, a local not for profit community group focused on connection and bringing people together, reducing isolation and improving wellbeing with creative community projects.

From very young school children to the very senior residents in the village everyone is encouraged to get involved. Each display area had its own information board telling the viewer a little about who had made what. The exhibits are spread far and wide around Cosby but there is a map available if you want to ensure you see the lot! There was lots we didn’t get to see but I hope you can get a feel for the event with these photos…..

The evening was topped off with a cuddle from this very friendly, and thoughtfully placed, Polar Bear before we headed off to the local chippy.

If you are wondering what happens to the exhibits at the end of the show they are taken down, dismantled, washed, repaired and packed away ready to be reborn again in two years time. Some will re-emerge looking much as they did this year, but in a different setting, while others will have a complete makeover and become something new. If you happen to be in the Leicestershire area when the next Yarn Bomb is on I can recommend you make a detour to Cosby and experience this wonderful event close up for yourself, you wont be disappointed!

Clicking ‘Buy’ was so darn easy, now what to do?

Clicking ‘Buy’ was so darn easy, now what to do?

Years ago, when the kids were small, I became a collector of recipe books. I didn’t particularly want to cook out of any of these, I simply loved reading the books and marvelling at the beauty of the process and the presentation of the meals.

More recently I have found that I have started collecting felting courses. I have been rather busy over the past few years – not sure where the time has gone – but last May, I decided that I had best do a stock take of the courses I have signed up for and not done. I discovered that I have at least 20 in my list. These courses either have indefinite access or I have been able to purchase and download the videos so there has never been an urgency in completing them. That said, I don’t want these to fall into the same category as the cookery books – lovely to look at but I wouldn’t like to do them.

Over the years, I have signed up for different Felting Camps offered by Corinna Nitschmann. Each year around April, Corinna invites a number of felting tutors to join her in her studio. The tutors record their respective workshops and then deliver the workshops on a specified date during the camp. Students can opt to work ‘live’ on the day, working with the pre-recorded videos with the tutor available to answer any questions they might have; they have access to these videos for a number of months, if they prefer to work at their own pace. Alternatively a student can pay a little extra and download the videos so that they are there indefinitely. This is the option I choose but I still enjoy being present during the live sessions as the sessions are always upbeat and great fun. Corinna herself is an amazing tutor and has a great sense of humour. There are lots of other activities taking place (besides the workshops) during the felting camp. Here is the link, if you would like to find out more about these https://cornitfelt.com/. I have 3 years of felting camp courses downloaded, that accounts for 15 courses. Then I purchased some courses that I found attractive from individual tutors and need to take. But for the summer months, I decided to focus on some of the felting camp courses. I thought I might share some of the results with you.

My first venture was called “Wet Felting Jewellery Basics” by Judit Haulik. It was part of the 2025 felting camp. This is a well paced course and the videos are divided nicely into sections so that it is possible to complete a task and walk away from it for a while. Students work with very small pieces of felt and Judit herself acknowledges that it can be a bit fiddly but, to be honest, I found that once I got into the groove, going small was not a challenge. I loved the repetitive nature of the design too and I can see possibilities for upsizing the process which Judit is teaching. My main learning on the course was how to integrate very fine chain into the overall design. I chose a very light chain for this process and I reckon that I will use a more robust one next time. That said I am very pleased that I rose to the challenge of the very fine chain as, after this, I feel the bigger size will be a dawdle. Here is the piece I made. I didn’t investigate further as I wanted to move on to another course. That said, I have ideas on where I can take my learning. I have done some quick sketches before they go out of my mind!

My next workshop came from the 2026 Felting Camp. It was one of the courses that originally attracted me to this year’s camp. The introduction to “Stool Covers” by Bea Nemeth was very joyous and depicted a variety of different shapes and sizes of stools which could be worked on. Bea also presented different possibilities for fibres which could be used in the design. We worked our design on prefelt and then if we wished we could adorn the stool cover with locks. Bea was fun and a little mischievous and at one stage headed to a dye pot with one of her samples. It was fun to see all this in real time at the session. As for the result ….. beautiful! I didn’t have a stool to work off so I headed out to our local Ikea. I made a variegated colour strong merino prefelt and I used my own geometric pattern for my design. I had some Bergschaf left over from making boots a number of years ago so I used this for the background. The resist was huge and I don’t know if you ever have that moment when you feel that a piece will never shrink down sufficiently (I had that on the stool) but it didn’t disappoint and, finally, with lots of patience, shaping and using tools it fit perfectly. I love the result and it acts as a reminder that patience works wonders when I am trying to fit to size.

Next up, it was a bit of a return to a comfort zone for me, fine art felt. I checked out Jorie Johnson’s ‘Fine Art “Small Works”’ Jorie studied textile design both in the USA,where she is originally from, and in Finland. She moved to Japan in 1987 and has been based there ever since. If you would like to find out more about Jorie you can visit her website at https://joirae.com/biography/. There was something very special about Jorie’s approach to the workshop – it kind of gave me permission to play with my design while being mindful of her teaching. While students had the freedom to use any style resist of their choosing, I decided to use the one Jorie presented, principally because it had some really challenging angles and shapes included. I also favoured roving over prefelt when I was laying out my background. I got a bit carried away with the design (Jorie recommended leaving more space between each element), but this was playtime and experimentation was the key for me here. Here is the result. Again, there was lots of learning on what can work and it is a great reference for future pieces.

That’s all I have for now. I know there are 17 more courses to go, but at least I have made a start. If you like, I can keep you updated on my progress, but the danger is that I am likely to disappear down the odd rabbit hole (I can already see two opening up). Like Alice in Wonderland, there is a possibility that I might meet (or transform into) the Mad Hatter although I wouldn’t mind having some of White Rabbit’s energy (perhaps it would help me get through the classes quicker) because at the moment in this (what appears to be at time of writing) never ending heat wave, my character is more akin to the Dormouse, constantly ready to roll over for another sleep!

Is there anyone out there in the same boat with lots of outstanding courses? Please tell me so that I know I am not alone.

Happy felting!

Hugs

Helene