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Month: January 2015

First Quarter Challenge – Making a Color Wheel

First Quarter Challenge – Making a Color Wheel

For the first quarter challenge I made a color wheel with colored markers. I also collected some color information from my studio journals of color wheels and scales I had done in the past. There were several comments that I hadn’t covered enough information about color in my first post and I will continue to add information as we go through the quarter. I think it is really hard to digest everything in one sitting so the color theory will be spread out over the quarter. I will be repeating some things of importance but as we have discussed over in the forum, it is easy to forget the terms if you don’t use them on a regular basis. So bear with me and I will try to explain color theory as I know it. One point that I didn’t make before that color mixing with light, paint and dye are all a bit different. So depending on the media you use, the results will not all be the same. Remember that you can click on any of the photos to enlarge them if you want a closer look.

Primary Colors on Color WheelI searched online for a blank color wheel and found this one shown above. It is from the site Color Wheel Artist and it has several free printable mixing wheels available. There are also lots more out there if you search for them. I printed a bunch out so I would have extras. I would suggest that you transfer the outline to a sturdier piece of paper such as watercolor or mixed media paper. All you have to do is put the printed wheel on a sunny window and put your heavier paper on top. You’ll be able to see the wheel underneath and will be able to trace it or just mark the corners. It really doesn’t matter if you stay within the lines, just getting the color on the paper is the important part. I used the computer paper but it got really flimsy when I was trying to mix the colors on the paper.

Primary Colors with Tombow Pens

For this color wheel, I used Tombow Colored Pens that are “blendable”. This set is called the “primary” set so it had the primary and secondary colors. The primary colors are red, blue and yellow. These are the colors that you can’t mix from other colors. So you need to start with the primaries to begin your color wheel. You can then mix from red, yellow and blue to achieve the remaining colors on the wheel. The hardest part here is deciding if you really have a primary yellow or primary red or primary blue. If you are mixing your primary colors and you come up with something different from what you expected, then you might not have a true primary color. When you are selecting your colors, look at what they are called. Most dyes and paints will have colors marked as primary.

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As an example, if you take a look at Zed’s color wheel that she made from dyed wool, you will see on the left at least three colors that look “yellow”.  If the colors were viewed in isolation, you would probably label them as “yellow”. But when placed side by side and compared, one is primary yellow, one leans towards orange and one leans towards green. So compare all your yellows and pick which you think is the “primary” one before you start. The same with reds and blues. If you start out with a “primary” that leans to its secondary color, it won’t provide a pure mix of color and your secondary and tertiary colors will be affected.

Adding Secondary Colors to Color Wheel

Next I colored in the secondary colors which are orange, green and violet (purple). My pens had the secondary colors so I didn’t have to mix anything to apply the secondary colors. If you are using paint, you’ll need to start with the lighter color and add small amounts of the darker color such as mixing small amounts of red into yellow to achieve orange.  A mixture of blue into red creates purple and a mixture of blue into yellow creates green.

Primary and Secondary Colors

Depending on what media you are using, sometimes it is equal parts of primary colors that make a secondary color but that isn’t always true with paint pigments. Sometimes an equal amount of red mixed with an equal amount of yellow would not be a middle range orange but instead a red-orange. That is because the red overpowers the yellow in the mixture. So mixing a small amount at a time and testing on paper before applying the mixed secondary color to your wheel is helpful.

Testing Colors on Scrap Sheet of Paper

I used this blank piece of paper to try to mix colors with my pens. I have to say that this is where I ran into some problems. My paper was too flimsy and the pens didn’t really “blend” all that well. But I kept at it until I was able to achieve a fair representation of the tertiary colors.

Mixing Tertiary Colors and Adding to Color Wheel

Here is my final color wheel. The tertiary colors are yellow-orange, red-orange, red-violet, blue-violet, blue-green and yellow-green. It helps if you label what media you used and what the color names were. Then if you want to repeat a color, you will be able to create it again. I would also recommend that you start a color notebook and keep your information all together. I have mine scattered throughout at least 7 different journals and it isn’t easy to find quickly. If you have all your color experiments in one place, you can use that as a resource when you are mixing colors in the future.

A short note about color wheels. I learned that yellow should always be at the top and the blue to the right. But that’s not the way everyone does it. I wouldn’t worry too much about color placement as long as your primary colors form an equilateral triangle in the wheel.

Here are some other color wheels that I have created over the years. The top right is dyed thread color wheel. The other two top photos show the difference in color mixing if you use a yellow that leans more towards orange compared to a primary yellow. The top middle photo is mixed with primary yellow and the top right is mixed with a “golden” yellow. Can you see how it mixes differently? The left bottom photo is a color wheel from cut out magazine colors. I can see now that my primary blue leans towards violet. The other two bottom photos are color wheels from two different textile paints that I use in my work.

Mixing Tints with Dye

I had several questions about colors such as pink and where they fit on the color wheel. A color with white added is called a tint. The photo above shows mixing dyes to achieve tints. Dyes are different from paints in that there is no “white” dye. Instead, the dye is diluted with water to achieve a tint and make a paler color. You could do this same sort of scale with wool. Start with the pure colored wool and add little bits of white at a time to achieve different tints. Tints are not always shown on a basic color wheel. Some of the fancier ones have tints in an outer ring surrounding the basic color wheel.

Mixing Shades with Procion MX Dye

This is a sheet I did about mixing “shades”. Shades are a color mixed with black. The photo shown above is done with dye and painted on to the paper. If you see the number on the left hand side, that is the number of drops of black added each time to achieve the changes shown. Again, shades are not shown on a basic color wheel. Sometimes you will see them in the center of the wheel moving towards black at the very center. This same sort of effect could be achieved by blending colored wool with black wool in incremental amounts.

Neutralizing Yellow with Complementary Violet

Many colors that you see are “neutralized” colors. To achieve neutrals, add in the complementary color. A complementary color is the one on the opposite side of the color wheel. In this examples, yellow and violet are used. Small amounts of the darker color violet is added into the yellow. Again the numbers represent the number of drops added. So to “neutralize” your colors of wool, mix in a small amount of the opposite color on the color wheel.

Color Study with Colored Pencil

Another fun exercise is to use the same colors but mix them in different ways. Here three colors are used: orange, light blue and blue. The top is a greater percentage of blue with a less amount of orange. The middle has black added and the lower has more white paper showing through. This could easily be tried in felt by not thoroughly mixing the fiber colors together and felting them in different proportions or on a white background or black background to see the differences.

primary colours by Lyn

Lyn from RosiePink made a wonderful color wheel out of wool starting from the primary colors above. You can read more about it on her post.

colour wheel by Lyn

The result is wonderful and she did this all by hand carding from the primary wool colors above. Great job Lyn!!

blended greens by Zara

So have you tried making a color wheel? I hope you’ll give it a try. And if you’ve already made a color wheel perhaps you can try mixing some shades, tints or neutralized colors. One of our forum members Zara worked on mixing some shades, tints and tones (mixing in grey) with green wool. You can read about it here. It’s in English at the bottom of the post.

I hope you’ll join in the color fun. If you have any questions, either leave a comment here or join us on the forum in our color discussion. We have been having a lively discussion and I think everyone is learning from the others experiments.

Isosceles Triangle

Next week, I will do a post about using  a color wheel to choose a color scheme. It helps if you have one made on paper so if you haven’t done that yet, give it a try!

 

 

 

 

Arm Warmers by Cathy Wycliff

Arm Warmers by Cathy Wycliff

 

Our guest artist/author today is Cathy Wycliff aka Luvswool who made a variety of arm warmers this Christmas for her family and friends.

Most of my felting this year has focused on wall hangings and scarves. Earlier this year, I went through a nuno-felting craze, followed by designing and felting cobweb and thick, wooly scarves.
But mostly, I focused on wall art, which included entries for the Quarterly Challenges, as well as some portraits, landscapes and seascapes. In November, I decided to experiment with arm warmers, or fingerless gloves and–if they turned out well–I would gift them to my mom and four sisters at Christmas. I looked at many wrist cuffs, arm warmers, gauntlets and fingerless gloves on-line and decided to start out simply with arm warmers–that is, short and long felted cuffs which extend over the fingers but do not include thumb or finger holes.

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My first pair would go to my youngest sister, who works in a cool office and wears arm warmers as part of her daily outfit. She mostly wears black, but I asked if I could toss in a color as well, and she chose olive. Using black Gotland and olive Coopworth (torn from a batt), I fashioned a rectangle which would make a pair. My intention was to cut the piece in half and then use buttons to close. Because I like to work on two projects at once, I then chose some grey Navajo churro and some mixed color merino and tussah for the second pair. Felting the wool was as easy as making a piece of flat felt, but choosing the proper buttons and making the buttonholes proved to be problematic.

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I have a modest collection of vintage buttons, some of my own from sewing 40 years ago, and some which were given to me by friends and family. But many of those buttons are one or two of a kind, so it was a challenge to find enough buttons for my project. I chose olive ball buttons for the first pair, and teal wavy buttons for the second pair. My mistake was in thinking I could snip small holes into the wool that would serve as buttonholes. I tried needle-felting, hidden binding, and blanket stitching; however, the holes remained loose and too large in some cases. My solution was to use hidden stitches to bind the seam and make a seamless arm piece. And yes, wool felt “gives.” The buttons became a decoration, rather than a functional part of the cuff.

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I continued to make enough arm warmers for my female family members, choosing the colors and lengths I knew they would prefer: pink, blue & white merino for my sister-in-law; shorter cuffs in black merino with embellishments for another sis, and finally small white wool cuffs with silk hanky embellishment for my mom. With the rush of the holidays, I never got around to making a pair for myself, but I am jumping on the slipper bandwagon next. My new lasts are ready and waiting!

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Thanks Cathy, I’m sure your family and friends will enjoy these lovely gifts to stay warm in the cold Chicago weather.

 

Looking Ahead 2015

Looking Ahead 2015

I suppose I should start with my usual plan of trying to be more organised this year  🙂  This usually just means buying more bins and boxes to put supplies in, but I tend to use stuff less if it’s tidied away, so I want ‘being more organised’ to mean having things more accesable this year. That’s not easy when it’s fibres though, I worry about carpet beetle bugs. I discovered a few pieces of fabric I’d bought a while ago that I still haven’t tried out because they were tidied away so I need a compromise.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAnother thing I say every year is that I plan to work on more tutorials and a new e-book, and how I’ve been working on my ‘other fibres’ project for years and want to work more on that. I did do quite a bit of work on that and really just need to get back into it, it shouldn’t be that hard since I like playing around with wool and fibre combinations so much 🙂

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOne thing I always look forward to is our studio challenges. If you didn’t see Ruth’s post, have a look here. This year we are focusing on colour, not just colour themes though, but learning about colour and playing with it. We’ve already started talking about it on the forum: looking at colour wheels and making our own out of tufts of wool. And Zara was talking about blending different shades and tones by adding white, grey and black to green, you can see her post here.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThat’s it for plans, I think I’ll just see how things go and try and go with the flow and stress less 🙂

A New Felting Year

A New Felting Year

We are starting a new blank calendar.  It’s time to look back and look ahead. As I look back at my year it’s been quite busy. There have been lots of classes and I even took a couple of classes.

Linda finishedalpaca tracks happy hat

I managed to do some art with felt and make a huge curly fleece hat with horns for an exhibition.

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Ann with hat (2)

 

There were not so good things. I didn’t get recalled to work in September so I am unemployed.  On the bright side at least it was a good time. I had shows coming up so I did make some money. I sold some work to a store and got invited to sell work in a local museum store. One of the best things to happen has nothing to do with felt or wool. I found out I will be a grandmother in February. So now I have a reason for all this gray hair, I will be a nana.

My new year will be exiting with the new baby,  hopefully a new part time job and more felt. I am hoping to try  for the 3rd time making  the felt boots I was supposed to try again last year.  I think it will be a good year. I hope your year was good and the new one will even better.

new-year-desktop-wallpaper

 

Focus on Color in 2015 – 1st Quarter Studio Challenge

Focus on Color in 2015 – 1st Quarter Studio Challenge

The overall theme for the studio challenges in 2015 will be color. Who doesn’t love to play with color? I think though that sometimes you might shy away from learning about color theory. It just sounds too technical and too much work. Many artists have spent a lifetime learning about color theory but you don’t need to get overwhelmed. Just jump in and start learning more about color with our quarterly challenges this year. This first quarter, I will give some basic information about color theory and the challenge is to learn about color theory and apply it to how you create. That might include making a color wheel with fiber or it could be mixing dye colors methodically and making color scales on a piece of paper to document your results or it could be blending already dyed fibers together to see what colors you create. I will be doing several posts over this quarter about how to make a color wheel, how to mix color and make color scales and how to develop color schemes from a color wheel. You could do this with paints, colored pencils, papers, fabric, fiber or dyes. Choose which ever medium suits you best.

Color Wheel of Wool

Color occurs when light in different wavelengths strikes our eyes. Objects have no color of their own, only the ability to reflect a certain wavelength of light back to our eyes. As you know, color can vary in differing circumstances. For example, grass can appear gray in the morning or evening or bright green at noon. Colors appear different depending on whether you view them under incandescent, fluorescent or natural sunlight. Colors also change according to their surroundings.

thread color wheel

There are three properties of color which are hue, value and intensity. Hue refers to the color itself. Each different hue is a different reflected wavelength of light. White light broken in a prism has seven hues: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet. Remember Roy G. Biv? White light occurs when all the wavelengths are reflected back to your eye, and black light occurs when no light is reflected to your eye.

Color value refers to the lightness or darkness of the hue. Adding white to a hue produces a high-value color, often called a tint. Adding black to a hue produces a low-value color, often called a shade. Value can be used for emphasis. Variations in value are used to create a focal point for the design of a piece.

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Intensity, also called chroma or saturation, refers to the brightness of a color. A color is at full intensity when not mixed with black or white – a pure hue. You can change the intensity of a color, making it duller or more neutral by adding gray to the color. You can also change the intensity of a color by adding its complement (this is the color found directly opposite on the traditional color wheel). When changing colors this way, the color produced is called a tone.

Earth and Moon

Certain colors have an advancing or receding quality, based on how our eye has to adjust to see them. Warm colors such as red, orange or yellow seem to come forward while cool colors such as blue and green seem to recede slightly. In the atmosphere, distant objects appear bluish and the further away an object appears, the less colorful and distinct it becomes. You can use this tendency to give an illusion of depth, by using more neutral and grayish colors in the background.

Various color schemes can be used in your work. A monochromatic color scheme involves the use of only one hue. The hue can vary in value, and black or white may be added to create various shades or tints.

Stewart Stephenson - Ruth

An analogous color scheme involves the use of colors that are located adjacent on the color wheel. The hues may vary in value. A complementary color scheme involves the use of colors that are located opposite on the color wheel such as red and green, yellow and purple, or orange and blue. Complementary colors produce a very exciting, dynamic pattern.

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Or how about triadic? This color scheme involves the use of colors that are equally spaced on the color wheel. The primary colors of yellow, red and blue could be used together in a color scheme to produce a lively result.

I am certainly not a color expert. (Most of this information came from this website.)  One of the things I try to do is when I get new painting/color supplies, is to make a color wheel and mix the different colors together. I am always surprised by what comes out. One yellow is not the same as another yellow. One yellow may tend more toward the orange/red side of the color wheel, while another may tend toward green/blue. These different yellows will yield absolutely different results when mixed with other colors.When I got some Golden heavy body acrylics, I mixed green and red and got purple. It was certainly not the color I was expecting. Try mixing your colors beforehand and making a sample of each mixture in a journal. If  you don’t keep a journal, just use a sheet of paper and keep it with your paints.

I found an excellent resource about color, books about color and just why it is important to learn more about color. Check out Roz Wound Up in this post. Here’s another one that has tons of information and links about color. There’s enough information there to keep you busy for a while.

Carded Batts

When you’re thinking about color this quarter, ask yourself a few of these questions:

• How can you use color to evoke different emotions? Do you connect certain emotions to certain colors?

• What does using a monochromatic color scheme do to your composition? Complementary? Analogous? Or Triadic?

• How do you choose your color scheme? Is it affected by the subject of your composition? The mood you want to achieve? What is the impact of choosing a color scheme that is the opposite of your normal choice?

• What would your composition look like with all the same values? How can you use value changes to improve your focal point?

• Have you tried mixing various paints to see what colors you can achieve? What colors do you achieve when you mix two colors together? What happens if you add black to your colors?

So the challenge for the first quarter is to learn a little bit about color theory and show us what you have learned. Create a color wheel, mix colors together, try a color scheme you wouldn’t normally use, get a color wheel and use it to choose your colors for your next project. Explore color in ways you haven’t in the past. Take one of the questions above and expand on it. PLAY WITH COLOR!!! 

Please join us on the forum to show everyone what you’ve done with color. Or you can contact us here on the website and we’d be glad to post about what you have learned. But please do share as we all can learn from each other’s experiments and knowledge.

If you are interested in a good online or in person course, check out Level One Color Studies at the Gail Harker Center for Creative Arts. I took the course last summer and I highly recommend it. It is either online beginning January 13 or at the center in May. No affiliation, just love all her courses. It is well worth the investment.

 

 

 

 

Round and Round I Go

Round and Round I Go

Happy New Year!

One of the things I wanted to do more of this past year was to stitch on felt.  I did one wool painting based on Moy Mackay’s “Anemones”  from her book Art Felt and Stitch that I used free motion embroidery for the first time.   http://feltingandfiberstudio.com/?s=moy+mackay

I was a bit intimidated, but Lyn from Rosiepink encouraged me to keep trying.  So, using Rosiepink’s ebook  I chose to try an embroidered bowl.  http://rosiepink.typepad.co.uk/rosiepink/handmade-felt-and-stitch-bowls.html

I gathered up a lot of my swatches and scraps and decided to use some batik fabric samples I cut up, silk scraps of habotai and chiffon, hand dyed locks, cotton scrim, throwsters waste, hand dyed kid mohair, mulberry silk — dyed and undyed .  One batik swatch that I liked had Oriental fish.  I used that idea for the center of the bowl with handmade prefelt and later in the process I embroidered the details.

Following the instructions, I layed put the circle base and carefully decorated it with my prefelts, scraps and other embellishments.  I used hand dyed mulberry silk on the back to give that some color and shine, but didn’t take a picture. Here is the inner side before felting.

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After felting I let it dry then put in the embroidery details before starting the free motion stitching.

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I purchased five different colors of rayon Gutterman thread — grape, cranberry, turquoise, light purple and silver.

After getting organized to sew, I held my breath, said a prayer and round and round I went stitching as instructed happily watching the bowl take shape right before my eyes!

However, my eyes were crossed by the time I finished trying to follow the rows of stitching needed.  But the result was worth it.  The stitching isn’t perfect especially in the center.  I found it challenging to do the tighter small circles.

2014-10-28 12.12 2014-10-28 12.16It was hard to get decent pictures of the sides between the angle and the lightning.  But you can see the colors underneath and the shiny rayon threads.

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Thanks again to Lyn and Annie for such great instructions and your encouragement.  I hope one of these days the free motion will be second hand, but I still need more practice.  Fortunately, there are many more projects in the book to try besides venturing out on my own.

So, one of my resolutions is to continue to challenge myself to try new free motion projects this year.  What fiber resolutions have you made for 2015?