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Author: rosiepink

Christmas Tea Cosy

Christmas Tea Cosy

Christmas tea cosy

There are lots of pretty things you can buy for the kitchen to use at Christmas, but where do you store them for the rest of the year?

So I decided to decorate my felted tea cosy for Christmas in a way that would be temporary, so that as soon as Christmas is over I can remove the embellishments.

I made my felted tea-cosy in 2008 and it’s still in daily use but only one side ever gets seen whether it’s on the tea-pot or hanging on the kitchen wall…

tea cosy in kitchen

…so I decorated the reverse side and that’s the side that will show during the festive season.

After much pencil-end chewing I drew a rough design then, because I find proper drawing difficult, I searched the internet for a free-to-use outline of a deer.

It’s extremely difficult to draw a complicated shape directly onto felt, and freehand cutting a deer out is beyond me.  Luckily there is an easy way using freezer paper.

I reversed the outline then traced it onto the paper side of a piece of freezer paper, then placed it, waxy side down onto a small, thin piece of white fulled felt.  I ironed the freezer paper onto the felt (1-2 minutes with a medium dry iron) then let it cool for half an hour.

freezer paper ironed onto felt

I won’t lie to you – cutting the white felt to the outline of the deer was very fiddly and I nearly lost some of the antler.  Next time I’ll choose something simpler!  Holding my breath, I carefully removed the freezer paper.

I put a felting mat inside the tea cosy then I used a felting needle to ‘tack’ the white deer in place.  I should mention that my tea cosy is a chunky thing – it’s thick and therefore easy to work on.  I didn’t go too near the edges of the silhouette for fear of splitting the white felt – even so the antler still went a bit wonky – so although tacking the deer shape in place would be ok for art work it wouldn’t survive long on a working tea cosy!

tacking with felting needle

The snowflakes are just wisps of white merino wool fibres loosely needle felted in.

snowflakes

The snowy ‘ground’ is fancy yarn. I used white thread to hold it in place – a small stitch every inch.

fancy yarn looks like snowflakes

I liked all the blue and white but a small colour accent was needed so I cut a piece of Christmas ribbon to make a collar and attached it to the white felt with fabric glue.

When I’d finished I could see that I just had to make a new hanging hook the same colour as the tea cosy, so I knitted an i-cord from some sparkly crochet cotton.

i-cord

All the embellishments are easily removable after Christmas.  The deer can be peeled off, the snowflakes popped out, the yarn unstitched and the forgiving felt will smooth itself out with a bit of gentle rubbing.

But I’ll keep the sparkly hanging hook – it looks good with the other side of the tea cosy!

Felting with yarns

Felting with yarns

The challenge for this quarter is “surface decoration by twists, tubes, yarns” and I chose to use only yarns as surface decoration.

This is my inspiration photo, taken by my daughter Annie, on a local beach.  I used it to inspire my felted piece for the challenge.

inspiration photo for challenge

The first thing I see in the photo are the ropes, thick and thin, in white, orange and turquoise and there’s a lot of frayed ends.  Then at the top there’s a metal ring that may have had chain attached to it at some time, and in the middle is some tangled fibre.

I decided to make the yarn embellishments first, starting with the ropes.

I used 100% wool 4-ply yarn to make the ropes (there’s a good tutorial by ‘Textile Arts Now’ that shows how to make a twisted cord).  The thickness of the cord will depend on how many strands of yarn used to make it.

different thicknesses of cord

Note: Some 100% wool is labelled ‘Superwash’ and it won’t felt.

To distress the ends of the ropes, untwist the yarn strands.  It can be tricky – I lost a bit during the separation of the strand below – it looks like 3-ply now!

frayed yarn rope end

I used 100% wool yarn to make a chain by tying knots at regular intervals in a double length of yarn.

chain made by knotting wool yarn

A piece of this fancy yarn, after distressing, made the fibre mess I needed.

distressed fancy yarn

I wanted to add a little something that wasn’t in the inspiration photo but I still wanted it to be made from yarn.

After a quick trip to Googleland I found a lovely free knitting pattern, by ‘knittingninja’, free starfish pattern, so I made one from pink mohair.  A piece of knitting can be fairly ‘solid’ so I thought the fluffy mohair would help the starfish to felt in easily and I made the stitches a bit looser than I normally would.

starfish knitted with mohair yarn

So I then had all the components I needed – all made from yarn.

I made a base of loose yellow merino wool fibres to compose my challenge piece on.  When I’d finished I took a quick snap on my phone to check the composition – it’s much easier to see the whole thing on a screen.

quick phone snapshot to check layout

I started the felting agitation very carefully so as not to disturb the design, then turned it over and worked mainly from the back – checking the front at regular intervals.

When the yarns were loosely attached I rolled the felt until the piece felt firm.  When it was dry I trimmed the edges with a rotary cutter – the finished size is 32 x 26cm (13″ x 10″).

Strandline

 

As you can see from the close-up below, the texture is pronounced but none of the yarn embellishment moves under finger pressure!  It’s all felted in there “good ‘n’ proper”.

texture

 

HOW TO MAKE PRE-FELT

HOW TO MAKE PRE-FELT

Pre-felt is quick and easy to make.  It’s used to make definite shapes in a layout – a shape that’s cut from pre-felt is called an ‘inlay’.  Pre-felt is firm enough to cut but loose enough to felt into other fibres.

Pre-felt can be bought ready-made, but if you make your own you can have the exact colour, plain or blended, that you want.  You can also add other fibres on top as embellishment.

We’ve used merino wool tops but any wool fibres can be used.  Shown below: merino wool tops blended colours and plain.

merino wool

To make a small piece of pre-felt you will need: merino wool fibres, a round-stick sushi mat, small-bubble bubble-wrap, net, 2 rubber bands, soapy water in a mister/spray bottle, a bar of soap, and an old towel.

Spread an old towel onto your work surface then put a round-stick sushi mat on it.  Place a piece of bubble wrap – bubbles down so they will not be against the wool fibres – onto the sushi mat.

Place a tuft of wool fibres, with the fibres running horizontally, onto the bubble wrap, shown below left, then add a second tuft of fibres slightly overlapping the first. Continue laying tufts of wool until you have completed a row, shown below right.

first tufts and first row

Then add more rows, each row slightly overlapping the one above it, until you have completed the first layer.

first layer complete

Start a second layer by placing a tuft of wool fibres, with the fibres running vertically (i.e. at right angles to the first layer of fibres),  on the top left corner of the first layer, shown below left, then continue laying tufts  until you have completed a row.  Then lay more rows until you have completed the second layer, shown below right.

second layer

Cover the wool fibres with a piece of net, then spray warm soapy water over until the fibres are saturated (but not swimming away!)

apply warm soapy water to the fibres

We prefer to use Olive Oil soap flakes dissolved in water because it’s low-sud, but you can use any soap flakes or dish-wash liquid.

Push down gently on the wool, with flat hands, to encourage the wool to take up the water and to eliminate air pockets.

flatten the fibres

Hold the net with one hand then carefully draw a bar of soap all over the net.  We prefer to use a bar of Olive Oil soap but any soap will work.

draw bar of soap across fibres through the net

Slowly peel the net off…

carefully peel away the net

…then cover the wool fibres with a second piece of bubble wrap, bubbles up so that they are not against the wool.  Gently press down all over to flatten the bubble wrap onto the fibres.

flatten the bubble wrap against the fibres

Roll it all up snugly in the sushi mat…

rolling up the fibres in the mat

…then drain off any excess water.

draining excess water

Put 2 rubber bands around the sushi mat to prevent it unrolling.

rubber bands to hold sushi mat tight

Using light pressure, roll the mat 100 times.

rolling the sushi mat

We count 1 roll on the sushi mat as going from fingertips through to wrist then back again.

Unroll the mat, smooth and flatten the bubble wrap and fibres, turn it through 90°, as shown below, then roll it up again in the mat and replace the rubber bands.

turn the pre-felt through 90 degrees

Using light pressure, roll the mat 100 times. Unroll the mat, smooth and flatten the bubble wrap and fibres, turn it through 90°, then roll it up again in the mat and replace the rubber bands.

Repeat twice more so that the pre-felt has been rolled 400 times (100 times in 4 different directions).

Remove both pieces of bubble wrap then place the wool fibres directly onto the sushi mat.  Roll it up, then using light pressure roll it 50 times.

Unroll the mat, turn the wool fibres through 90°, roll the mat up then roll again 50 times.

Repeat twice more so that the fibres have been rolled 200 times (50 times in 4 different directions).

Don’t worry about neatening the edges during felting – they end up looking lacey/cobwebby and can make interesting inlays.

lacey edges

This amount of rolling should result in a soft pre-felt that can be cut, wet or dry, into the shapes you want.  It will give you a solid block of colour but the edges will blur into the background fibres.

To achieve a firmer pre-felt, roll it more.

Two pieces of rectangular, turquoise merino pre-felt (inlays) were felted into yellow merino wool fibres, shown below.  The top one is a soft pre-felt and you can see how the edges have blurred during felting, whereas the other, shown below it, is a firm pre-felt and the edges are distinct.

differences in pre-felt

If you are going to use the pre-felt straight away there’s no need to rinse the soap out, but if you want to keep it for longer, it’s advisable to rinse the soap out.

The pre-felt is delicate, so take care when rinsing it.  The easiest way is to rinse it through the sushi mat until the water runs clear.

rinsing the pre-felt

Keep the pre-felt rolled in the mat, place it on an old towel then roll it a few times to remove most of the water.  Place the pre-felt on a rack to dry.

Tips:

If you want to make a lot of pre-felts, save rolling time by using a large bamboo mat with several lots of fibres.  You can keep them apart or lay them close together then you will get some interesting pre-felt from the joins.

multiple pre-felts

If you’re making a lot of pre-felts for your stash you won’t know whether you will need soft or firm pre-felt for future projects, so make all your pre-felts up to the soft stage then rinse and dry them.  When you want to use them you can then choose to leave them soft or wet them to re-work to the firmness you need.

‘THE WINDFARM’ – A SIMPLE SEASCAPE

‘THE WINDFARM’ – A SIMPLE SEASCAPE

finished and unframed

Small abstract seascapes are quick and easy to make.  Just lay down some coloured horizontal lines and ‘hey presto’ the eye is tricked!

Make 3 base layers of wool fibres – start with a vertical layer so that the 3rd layer is vertical.  Wet down the wool fibres then mark a horizon with a piece of thread.

The layout shown below was approximately 30 x 20cm (12″x 8″) and only Merino wool fibres were used.

Base layers

You can just lay down horizontal, dry, coloured strips of wool fibres, but I prefer to wet the strips as I think the results are better.

The sample below shows 10 strips of merino wool fibres on a base layer of white (each colour was the same amount of fibres).  The top 5 strips were pre-wetted and the bottom 5 strips were dry, and when placed on the base layer they looked identical.  However, during felting the dry fibres have spread and the colour is not so intense.  The pre-wetted fibres don’t spread so much and the colours stay vibrant.

strips sample

To wet a strip of fibres, simply hold each end and saturate it in a bowl of soapy water.  Then lift it out and run finger and thumb gently down the length.

wetting and smoothing a tuft of wool fibres

To make the sky, start at the top with the darker colours then work downwards to the lighter ones.  Go back over it putting in colours wherever you think they need to be!

Adding strips to form the sky

To make the sea, start with the darker colours on the horizon (remember to remove the guide thread) and mirror some of the sky colours in the water then add a bit of headland.

adding strips to form the sea and land

Add a focal point.  Perhaps a lighthouse or buildings or boats.

The focus for this seascape is a windfarm and the windmills were formed from very thin wisps of white merino wool fibres.

making the windmills

During the early felting the straggly bits on both sides of the piece of felt were trimmed and it became painfully obvious that the windmills looked more like drunken dancers, so they were removed!

oops - that didn't work

When the felt was dry the windmills were added using white cotton perle embroidery thread – each windmill comprised a french knot and 4 long stitches.

I have a stash of frames bought from charity (thrift) shops and I had just the right one for ‘The Windfarm’.

in a plain white frame on wall

This is a very quick and easy way to make a seascape and it will never be the same twice!

Third Quarter Challenge – Beach Flowers

Third Quarter Challenge – Beach Flowers

Beach Flowers

I love the challenges and the brief for this one is “to add something underneath the top layer of wool that will change the surface after felting”. I added resists under the top layers of wool to enable me to change the surface of ‘Beach Flowers’.

I started with two very fine layers of white merino wool – layout size approx 58 x 31cm (23″x 12″), then I made the final base layer from blue and yellow merino wool.

one fine layer of blue and yellow merino wool over 2 fine white base layers of white merino wool

Then I spent several hours sifting through my fabric stash.  It’s wonderful to have such a huge choice of bits and pieces, but after tipping it all out onto the tables and floor to see what I had, my room was such a mess that I had to take a tea-break to build up the strength to pack the stash away.

I chose 5 different materials to represent sky, sea and sand, then I placed them on top of the wool fibres.

fabric strips laid onto merino wool base layers

Here’s a close-up to show the fabrics.

 

close up of fabrics on top of merino wool base layers

I made paper circles of various sizes (to represent the flower heads) then played around with the placement of them until I was happy.  Alan Titchmarsh says you should plant flowers in odd number groups for the best effect, so I plumped for 9.

trying out different size circles

Then I replaced the paper circles with bubble-wrap circles that would act as resists.

resists in place

I covered the resists with 2 layers of bright pink merino wool…

pink layer started to cover the resists

…then finished with a very skimpy layer of silver grey merino wool (the grey was the only colour my camera refused to portray accurately – it looks more blue doesn’t it?).

skimpy layer of silver grey

I felted the piece very gently to start with so as not to disturb the fabrics before the wool fibres had a chance to migrate through.

I didn’t tidy up the edges during felting because I intended to use a mount board (matte board) around the flowers.

When the felt was dry, I cut the resists out then made the petals stay open by using a felting needle along the base of each petal – inside and outside.

forming the petals

I needle-felted 2 triangles of scrap white felt into one of the flowers to give a focal point, then I cut a mount (matte) to a size that allowed the petals to overhang a little.

Beach Flowers

Thank you for setting the challenge Ruth!