Theatre Textiles – Intermission

Theatre Textiles – Intermission

I had intended that the next Theatre Textiles post would be about the costumes which I had made for us once we had transferred to our new venue. However in the meantime I had started work on part of a costume for our next Pantomime – The Little Mermaid. No, not the Disney version, but even so the Director has decided that the Sea Witch will be part human/part octopus (to be named Iphelia – pronounced I-feel-ya, which gives an idea of how our pantos appeal to adults as well as children!) and I have been asked to dress her. Other than make the designs and collect fabrics and accessories matching the palette of purple and “sludge” green, there isn’t much I can do until the part is cast.

The piece of the costume that I have started on is the necklace which Iphelia will wear when she takes full human form for part of the panto. So I decided that I should keep detailed notes and photos of what I’m doing so that I could tell you about it.
I have designed her “human” costume so that it will have as many references to octopuses (octopi?) as possible. I was inspired by a necklace which I saw on the BBC News website (can’t remember what it was about though) and I did a quick screen clip which I added to my “costume ideas” folder. The necklace is, I think, of a snake about to devour a cabochon stone. I had also spotted, some time ago, part of a piece which appeared to be a tentacle holding a sphere. Nothing like an octopus but the stone made me think of an octopus “head”.

I thought that the tentacles could issue from behind a large stone and form the links to the rest of the necklace. Since the necklace will be worn with a top which is asymmetrical and therefore has an off centre neckline, I wanted a necklace which was also asymmetrical. This would mean that it would have to be very light so that it wouldn’t keep slipping round while it’s being worn. I knew that I could make felt look like something other than wool – I had made the horns for my highland cow from just felt, plus lots of PVA glue and a bit of graphite from a soft pencil, so I didn’t see why I couldn’t make the necklace in a similar way.

cow horns

I want the necklace to look like proper jewellery from a distance, that is a large cabochon for the head with bead eyes, with the tentacles smooth and shiny.
Let’s see if I can do it.

Equipment, materials and design ideas

I decided that the best way to make the tentacles bendable would be to use a wire armature and since I still have a quantity of craft pipe cleaners I went for them. I would use my core wools – scoured merino – and some coloured tops for the surface layer.

Starting the tentacles

I carded some scoured merino and wrapped 8 half lengths of pipe cleaner, leaving an end uncovered on each. Then I made an octopus head shaped “stone” from the core wool and covered it in deep purple merino tops.

First body

I wet felted the tentacles, smoothing them out as much as possible. While the tentacles were still wet I curled up 3 of them and fixed them with light wire to help them “remember” the curves when they had dried – at which point I lost the curled up ones. (I blame The Borrowers.) As a result I had to make three more tentacles and, since they were to be curled anyway and I needed them quickly, I just made wet felted cords which were curled up.

New Curls

By the time these were dried the Borrowers had obviously decided that they didn’t want the original curled tentacles as they had reappeared. I tried various positions of body and tentacles to see how the necklace might look.

mock up of layout

That was when I decided that the octopus body should not be purple but green, looking a bit like jade, and that the tentacles needed to be purple rather than the muddy green I had pulled out to use. So I stripped off the purple tops from the body and replaced it with more carded scoured merino. Then I wet felted it and gave it a good coating of PVA glue, and I also PVA’d the tentacles.

Colour change

When they had dried I got out the metal nail file and the emery board. A good filing with these smoothed out all the ridges and bumps caused by the hairy surface under the glue.
I gave them a couple of coats of Chinese Evergreen acrylic paint on the body, and of Mulberry Cream on the tentacles. These were “match pot” paints which I had acquired from a local DIY store. I find that decorating acrylic paint samples are very useful, since they have very good coverage and a fantastic range of colours. When I have a project like this, I visit and select from as many of the local(ish) stores as I can as they usually all carry a different range and therefore different colour choices.

When the paint had dried I decided that I would give the tentacles a coat of metallic purple paint (which I had acquired some time ago from a branch of The Range’s artists supplies). If it turned out the way I hoped it should look a bit like enamelling. I liked the result and, with the addition of a coat or two of clear nail varnish, it could be said to resemble enamel.

More Paint and Nail Varnish

I thought that the “jade” body stone might look good with a little purple “marbling” so added a few fine lines of a lilac coloured acrylic match paint, rubbed it a bit with my thumb and then varnished that too.
Then I filed, painted and varnished the curled tentacles. Since I needed to have only two tentacles reaching up to each side of Iphelia’s neck, the rest would need to be curled around elsewhere. I thought that they could be grasping smaller pieces of “jade”, so I painted some wooden beads green and varnished those too. Having shaped the tentacles as I thought might be best, I gave everything another varnish.

When the varnish had dried I fitted the, now green, beads in the curled tentacles and stitched them in where necessary. One of them actually fitted over the tip of the tentacle and didn’t need stitching. I gave those tentacles a further final varnish to fix the beads firmly.
It then occurred to me that to make the tentacles look more like jewellery I could make use of some of the jewellery findings which I had accumulated. I found some cord tips and, having added them to the ends of the tentacles without beads, painted them with an iridescent nail varnish since their “silver” colour had deteriorated to dull grey.

Varnished parts and Tentacles before brightening the cord tips

As I was about to assemble the octopus I realised that it hadn’t got any eyes and, although it is possible to sew through the painted and varnished surface, I decided that I didn’t want to risk poking a needle through in the wrong place. I needed to glue something down, but I’ve learned not to trust glue on stage. It always lets go just at the wrong time. Belt and braces are best!. I remembered then that I had acquired some glitter glue some time ago and having turned it out (eventually)I decided to just use blobs of it as the eyes. If they came off I doubted it would be noticed. I also decided that a “setting” was needed for the “cabochon” so I added a little braid which was painted and varnished.

Next I had to find a piece of the right green ribbon which I would permanently attach to one side of the necklace, and with a hook on the other end which could latch round the opposite side. Since the necklace would need to be removed quickly during the quick change which the actor would have, I would need to find a fastening that wasn’t fiddly. I had some furrier’s hooks and eyes, which are large and wrapped with yarn. I used a hook which I painted with the Chinese Evergreen acrylic and stitched that to the other end of the ribbon. And we were done.

Here is the finished piece. Hopefully in due course you will see it worn by the actor in costume.

Finished necklace

19 thoughts on “Theatre Textiles – Intermission

  1. Inventive and brilliant! The necklace is perfect for the part it has to play. Thank you for sharing your creative process – a very interesting read – and we look forward to seeing it worn by the actor.

    1. Thanks Lyn. The part is cast and rehearsals are well under way now. I have had some “interesting times” with some of her costume pieces, but having (I hope) overcome these, I hope to have it finished shortly after the holiday. Iphelia is just getting over Covid at the moment. I just hope that, if the rest of the cast are going to get it, they do that sooner rather than later. The performance dates are not until 16th – 19th February so there’s time yet. It’s amazing how quickly the time goes after Christmas though.

  2. Wow! Wow and Wow again. That whole process has gotten me so excited. There are so many possibilities here (I sometimes design for burlesque). Thanks so much for sharing Ann. It was a fabulous read and the end result is superb. Iphelia will be very tactile – she will need bodyguards! Looking forward to seeing it on the actor – I suspect the costume will be just as dazzling. (Darn, ‘Under the Sea’ is now running through my head – chances are it is there for the day).

    1. Thanks Helene. I suppose Dublin is a bit far too away to come and watch the Panto in February. I am trying to remember to take lots of photos of the process so that I can show you all in due course.

    2. I would be over like a shot if given the chance Ann. The costume itself is going to be very complex, given the nature of the beast (or octopus) – if it’s anything like the burly costumes. I purely want to marvel at the finished article. It’s going to be so cool! Happy Christmas!

      By the way I uploaded the post to the Insta page this morning. If you have an account and would like a tag can you let me know the details (you have my email if necessary) x

  3. This is fantastic, Ann. I love how you have used mixed media to create a lightweight but thoroughly believable piece of jewelry. Sounds like it will be a fantastic production. I look forward to act two 😂

    1. Thanks Ruth. It is surprising what a little lateral thinking can do. It was not until I was trying to make a felt dry-stone wall for some stumpwork ivy to sit on that I first thought of mixing different media and techniques. More of this will pop up when I get to show some of the other costumes I have made since our 2007move to our new venue.

  4. Thanks Helen. I don’t have an Insta account. The Studio and the Forum are the nearest things to social media that I indulge in. The more I hear about them in the news and the effect they seem to have on people, the more I shy away from them. But then I’m old fashioned, I don’t have a fancy fone (or phancy phone) either.

    1. Thanks Lindsay. I intend to post about these costumes (one with tentacles and one with legs!) as well as some earlier ones in due course.

  5. Such an interesting article! I would’ve never thought of using felted materials, in that way, but it makes perfect sense. Light weight, moldable, and a great idea for a costuming budget. I have always found the best ideas, when forced to think, outside my box. Well done, Ann.

  6. Oh, this has got me so excited! I love mixed media work, and have painted my felt in the past, but haven’t used paint and then filed it in this way. Such an interesting post.
    Your necklace design is wonderful and I’m looking forward to seeing the whole costume.

    1. Thanks Karen. I’m hoping to get quite a bit done over the holiday. Mind you I say that every year and too many other things get in the way – not least the food & booze & films on catch up.

    1. Thanks Ann. I just hope it will be visible from the auditorium – it seats 301 so is quite big. We’ll see.

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