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Tag: Props

The Fox

The Fox

You may recall that in a recent post I told you about the outsize flea I had been asked to make for the play “Flea the Pandemic”.  About a month ago the director of that play asked me to make a prop for one of the three one act plays he had written which SNADS have just performed under his direction.  He asked for a dead fox!

In fact the play called for a vixen which had been killed by hounds and he wanted it to be as gory as possible.

Once again I asked Mr Google for some assistance with basic reference images – of live foxes.  From these I determined the colours of fur fabric which I would need to use.

composite picture of a fox from all directions.
Reference photo – All round a Fox.

Having spoken to our wardrobe mistress and acquired some bits from our stash, I realised that I was going to have to get some paint as we didn’t have much in the way of correct colours.  I was able to obtain some “match pots” of acrylic decorating paint in tan, and dark greyish-brown together with a “fresh blood” red and a “drying blood” red.  I collected together other items which I usually find helpful in making props – some of my non-woven cotton cleaning cloths, empty milk bottles and other plastic vessels and a couple of plastic tubes of different diameters.

collection of materials for making fox carcase.
Collecting the materials and reference photos.

Mr Google next helped me with the size of a vixen carcase (though from whose website I cannot now remember) and the shape of a fox’s skull.

table of measurements and outline of fox to reference size of model.
Reference information re size of “carcase”.
fox scull side view
skull

The basic skull shape I made from some pieces from an opaque white milk bottle and masking tape.

Image of skull, white plastic milk bottle and partly constructed skull "armature"
Part made skull “armature”

I made an approximate size body using one of the non-woven cloths, which I stuffed with some recycled polyester stuffing and I covered that with fur fabric, but leaving the “belly” open.  I covered the skull with fur fabric using PVA glue and some strong thread, and stitched it to the body.  I added two back legs in fur fabric, one full length front leg and, as I was then running out of the fabric, a short one leaving the paw end open and painted red, inserting some more of the opaque white plastic cut into “shards” to represent a bloody shattered bone.

inner body of model fox
Basic body shape

I was lucky with the tail, as amongst the bits in the fur fabric stash there was a piece which was stitched  into a vague tail shape and it was darker and fluffier than the rest of the fur fabric I had found.  So I stuffed it and added a white tip to it.  I stitched that onto the fox’s rear end.

Long piece of dark red/brown long fur fabric and small piece of white fur fabric.
Tail Fabrics

I added some ears to the head, using scraps of the fur fabric stiffened with PVA and paint.  I didn’t bother adding teeth to the open mouth as the head was likely to be less visible to the audience.  I painted a black nose and black eye sockets.

I then had to brush over the rest of the light tan coloured head and body with a darker tan, which I had mixed from the new paint and some in my paint box, using the dry brush method, to represent something more fox-like.

Next came the gory bits.  I fashioned some organ shapes from the plastic bottles, and some entrails from some of the tubing and a couple of the milk bottle handles.

plastic tubing and pieces of plastic vessels painted to look like entrails and organs
Painted plastic organs and entrails

I noticed that a couple of the non-woven cloths which had been through the washing machine several times were beginning to break down.  Stretching them pulled the centre into holes which began to look a lot like caul fat.  So I cut some sections out and wrapped the “organs”.  This would make them more realistic although the full effect would be unlikely to be seen by the audience.

Then I got busy with the “blood”!   The paint covered the “organs” and the “entrails” quite well, although I later found that it would flake off the milk bottle handles and would need touching up. I also treated the open belly, the short front leg and the mouth with lots more “blood”.

The fox was to be fixed to a black board, which would hopefully blend into the black flooring that was to cover the shiny wood floor of the stage.  Once this had been delivered to me by the Producer, I stuck the body to the board with more PVA (what would we do without it?) and then arranged and stuck down the organs and entrails.

But something was wrong, it didn’t look right.  Then I realised that there wasn’t enough blood.  If the fox had been torn apart by hounds there would be blood everywhere.  So I got the paints out again and spread a good deal of it over the board and added lots more to the body.

model dead fox with entrails showing and one front leg short and showing bone. Blood everywhere.
Dead Fox

I have now seen the play and at the end the poor fox was accorded a solo spot on the stage.

The End.

Theatre Textiles – Intermission

Theatre Textiles – Intermission

I had intended that the next Theatre Textiles post would be about the costumes which I had made for us once we had transferred to our new venue. However in the meantime I had started work on part of a costume for our next Pantomime – The Little Mermaid. No, not the Disney version, but even so the Director has decided that the Sea Witch will be part human/part octopus (to be named Iphelia – pronounced I-feel-ya, which gives an idea of how our pantos appeal to adults as well as children!) and I have been asked to dress her. Other than make the designs and collect fabrics and accessories matching the palette of purple and “sludge” green, there isn’t much I can do until the part is cast.

The piece of the costume that I have started on is the necklace which Iphelia will wear when she takes full human form for part of the panto. So I decided that I should keep detailed notes and photos of what I’m doing so that I could tell you about it.
I have designed her “human” costume so that it will have as many references to octopuses (octopi?) as possible. I was inspired by a necklace which I saw on the BBC News website (can’t remember what it was about though) and I did a quick screen clip which I added to my “costume ideas” folder. The necklace is, I think, of a snake about to devour a cabochon stone. I had also spotted, some time ago, part of a piece which appeared to be a tentacle holding a sphere. Nothing like an octopus but the stone made me think of an octopus “head”.

I thought that the tentacles could issue from behind a large stone and form the links to the rest of the necklace. Since the necklace will be worn with a top which is asymmetrical and therefore has an off centre neckline, I wanted a necklace which was also asymmetrical. This would mean that it would have to be very light so that it wouldn’t keep slipping round while it’s being worn. I knew that I could make felt look like something other than wool – I had made the horns for my highland cow from just felt, plus lots of PVA glue and a bit of graphite from a soft pencil, so I didn’t see why I couldn’t make the necklace in a similar way.

cow horns

I want the necklace to look like proper jewellery from a distance, that is a large cabochon for the head with bead eyes, with the tentacles smooth and shiny.
Let’s see if I can do it.

Equipment, materials and design ideas

I decided that the best way to make the tentacles bendable would be to use a wire armature and since I still have a quantity of craft pipe cleaners I went for them. I would use my core wools – scoured merino – and some coloured tops for the surface layer.

Starting the tentacles

I carded some scoured merino and wrapped 8 half lengths of pipe cleaner, leaving an end uncovered on each. Then I made an octopus head shaped “stone” from the core wool and covered it in deep purple merino tops.

First body

I wet felted the tentacles, smoothing them out as much as possible. While the tentacles were still wet I curled up 3 of them and fixed them with light wire to help them “remember” the curves when they had dried – at which point I lost the curled up ones. (I blame The Borrowers.) As a result I had to make three more tentacles and, since they were to be curled anyway and I needed them quickly, I just made wet felted cords which were curled up.

New Curls

By the time these were dried the Borrowers had obviously decided that they didn’t want the original curled tentacles as they had reappeared. I tried various positions of body and tentacles to see how the necklace might look.

mock up of layout

That was when I decided that the octopus body should not be purple but green, looking a bit like jade, and that the tentacles needed to be purple rather than the muddy green I had pulled out to use. So I stripped off the purple tops from the body and replaced it with more carded scoured merino. Then I wet felted it and gave it a good coating of PVA glue, and I also PVA’d the tentacles.

Colour change

When they had dried I got out the metal nail file and the emery board. A good filing with these smoothed out all the ridges and bumps caused by the hairy surface under the glue.
I gave them a couple of coats of Chinese Evergreen acrylic paint on the body, and of Mulberry Cream on the tentacles. These were “match pot” paints which I had acquired from a local DIY store. I find that decorating acrylic paint samples are very useful, since they have very good coverage and a fantastic range of colours. When I have a project like this, I visit and select from as many of the local(ish) stores as I can as they usually all carry a different range and therefore different colour choices.

When the paint had dried I decided that I would give the tentacles a coat of metallic purple paint (which I had acquired some time ago from a branch of The Range’s artists supplies). If it turned out the way I hoped it should look a bit like enamelling. I liked the result and, with the addition of a coat or two of clear nail varnish, it could be said to resemble enamel.

More Paint and Nail Varnish

I thought that the “jade” body stone might look good with a little purple “marbling” so added a few fine lines of a lilac coloured acrylic match paint, rubbed it a bit with my thumb and then varnished that too.
Then I filed, painted and varnished the curled tentacles. Since I needed to have only two tentacles reaching up to each side of Iphelia’s neck, the rest would need to be curled around elsewhere. I thought that they could be grasping smaller pieces of “jade”, so I painted some wooden beads green and varnished those too. Having shaped the tentacles as I thought might be best, I gave everything another varnish.

When the varnish had dried I fitted the, now green, beads in the curled tentacles and stitched them in where necessary. One of them actually fitted over the tip of the tentacle and didn’t need stitching. I gave those tentacles a further final varnish to fix the beads firmly.
It then occurred to me that to make the tentacles look more like jewellery I could make use of some of the jewellery findings which I had accumulated. I found some cord tips and, having added them to the ends of the tentacles without beads, painted them with an iridescent nail varnish since their “silver” colour had deteriorated to dull grey.

Varnished parts and Tentacles before brightening the cord tips

As I was about to assemble the octopus I realised that it hadn’t got any eyes and, although it is possible to sew through the painted and varnished surface, I decided that I didn’t want to risk poking a needle through in the wrong place. I needed to glue something down, but I’ve learned not to trust glue on stage. It always lets go just at the wrong time. Belt and braces are best!. I remembered then that I had acquired some glitter glue some time ago and having turned it out (eventually)I decided to just use blobs of it as the eyes. If they came off I doubted it would be noticed. I also decided that a “setting” was needed for the “cabochon” so I added a little braid which was painted and varnished.

Next I had to find a piece of the right green ribbon which I would permanently attach to one side of the necklace, and with a hook on the other end which could latch round the opposite side. Since the necklace would need to be removed quickly during the quick change which the actor would have, I would need to find a fastening that wasn’t fiddly. I had some furrier’s hooks and eyes, which are large and wrapped with yarn. I used a hook which I painted with the Chinese Evergreen acrylic and stitched that to the other end of the ribbon. And we were done.

Here is the finished piece. Hopefully in due course you will see it worn by the actor in costume.

Finished necklace