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Tips for Taking Photos of Your Fibre Artwork

Tips for Taking Photos of Your Fibre Artwork

This is a guest post by Dani D. Thanks Dani for your photography expertise!

Part 1 of 3: Telling the story

Hi! I’m Dani and this is my first post here, though 2024 marks my 20th (!!) year of blogging. I started blogging about raising my family, and then about photography. Now that my kids have grown up, I’ve moved my bloggy thoughts to a new home at Curious Crone, so feel free to come visit me there some time. 

Ruth generously invited me to share a few tips about digital photography and I had so many thoughts it turned into a trilogy. Today, we’ll talk about telling the story and basic tips on using your smartphone to take better photos of your fibre projects. In later posts, we’ll talk about the two most important factors that will affect your photos: light and colour.

In many ways, taking photos of your fibre arts projects is easier than photographing humans. The fibre art doesn’t stick out their tongue when mom is not looking (this happens rather a lot in my family photography business) nor do they give that tight-lipped fake smile while stage-whispering out of the corner of their mouth to the other subjects in the photo “if you don’t behave for this photos I will take away your devices for a year!” 

First, a few words about smartphones and apps. For this post, I’m thinking mostly in terms of taking pictures with your phone. There are two terrific free apps for editing photos: Google’s Snapseed and Adobe’s Lightroom. (And yes, you really should edit your images to polish them – it can make all the difference in the world.) I use Snapseed on my iPhone and Lightroom for editing dSLR images on my Mac, but there’s a great version of Lightroom as a mobile app and as an online editor. Both Snapseed and Lightroom mobile apps are available for iOS and Android. Did I mention free? 

As every photography teacher will tell you, getting the image as right as possible before you press the shutter saves you time and effort at the editing stage. So whether you’re taking photos of a wet-felted vessel or your adorable two-year-old nephew, take a second before you click the shutter and think about the following things: 

  • Is the background clear of clutter? 
  • Do other elements in the frame complement or compete with the subject?  
  • What story am I trying to convey?
  • Would a different perspective tell a different story? (Try shooting looking up at the subject, looking down at the subject, zoomed in to fill the frame, zoomed out to show something as small in a large background, shoot down from overhead, shoot at eye level, shoot super close to illustrate a fine point of detail.)

If you start thinking in terms of the story you are telling, your photography will improve immensely. In fact, as a successful licenser of stock photos to Getty Images, I’d argue the story is more important than the technical criteria of the photo. Every successful image should tell a story, whether it’s about the texture of the piece or the shape, the colours or the light. The photo is not just a static thing, it’s an invitation to interact with your creation or your creative process.

Collage of photos showing variety of fiber art tools, artwork and supplies.

How do you begin to tell that story? Don’t just snap the photo as soon as you have your subject trapped in the viewfinder – compose your image deliberately and thoughtfully. For more tips and ideas around how to compose your image, search up ‘rules of composition’ for ideas like leading lines, rule of thirds, etc. 

Here’s an example of me finding the story I wanted to tell. First photo, basic spindle and wool. Not very interesting.

Drop spindle with blue and purple handspun yarn on wood background.

What if I added some fibre to flesh out the photo? Nope, too busy. Background is distracting focus from the subject.

Drop spindle with blue and purple handspun yarn on wood background.

I love this blue mason jar. I could use it to stand the spindle up for a better angle. Except the background is too cluttered.

Drop spindle in blue mason jar on wood floor.

I’ve zoomed in and am playing around with the perspective.

If you’re making photos for an Etsy or other online shop, think about setting a mood with props and building a little tableau. An old piece of barn board and some cream linen evokes a sort of farmhouse chic mood, where a cup of coffee and an aloe plant set more of a lifestyle vibe. Just keep in mind that you want accessories to compliment your subject and not compete with it.

This is my kitchen floor, after a quick swipe to remove crumbs and pet hair. The first thing I noticed in the first photo was the seam down the middle of the wreath, which is a distraction. I played with the angles a bit but didn’t love any of these.

Collage of different photos of Christmas wreath on wood background

I pulled some loose wool and tools in to tell a bit of a how-to story. I liked that much more.

Collage of different photos of Christmas wreath on wood background

These last two photos show the difference editing can make. The first is straight out of the camera.

Christmas wreath with gnome and two stars on wood background

The one below has been edited for brightness (more), ambiance (more) and a slight rotation and crop to cut out the bit of gap at the top right to keep the viewer’s eye in the frame. Bright spots and colour will draw viewers’ attention, so use them deliberately.

Christmas wreath with gnome and two stars on wood background

I don’t like that I cut out a bit of the tips of the curly bits of grapevine, and I would have liked the gnome closer to the ⅓ line, and that the top of the felting needle doesn’t reach over the cookie cutter. But, if I don’t stop playing with this and get it to Ruth it will never get published!

Digital cameras love averages

A camera’s sensor pulls everything toward average, so it makes a bright scene more dull and a dark scene more light. The more dark the camera senses, the more light it tries to bring in, and vice versa. But on a sunny winter day, we don’t want it to turn all our lovely white snow to grey, and we don’t want it turning the closeup of our lush black felted hat to a murky grey either. Be aware of this and use the Brightness or Exposure setting in your editing app to make your whites bright (but not too bright!) and your darks proper dark.

There are three basic edits that will significantly improve most photos. In Snapseed, all three of them are under “Tools” (at the bottom) then “Tune Image” at the top left. 

Swipe down to find Brightness (I often lift the brightness a bit since I am usually inside where the light is dimmer), Contrast (a touch more contrast is often pleasant), and Ambiance. I love the Ambiance slider. I’m not entirely sure what the special sauce is, but it’s mostly mid-tone contrast, and it makes colours pop. Just a little swipe to the right is often enough to give you a lovely bit of extra magic.

Screen shot of Ambiance under tools in Snapseed

Here’s one of the photos from the series above straight out of the camera (left) and edited (right). I tweaked Shadows (less) , Ambiance (more), Contrast (more) and white balance (warmer). We’ll talk more about white balance in a later post.

Comparison of photo before and after editing in Snapseed.

So that’s my introduction to making the most of smartphone photography. First, think about the story you want to tell. Next, compose your image thoughtfully, and pay equal attention to what you include and what you exclude. And finally, give it a little polish with a photo editing app. But not too much!

Next time we’ll talk about the number one most important thing that can make or break your photos.

Sudden Change of Plans

Sudden Change of Plans

I have come to the conclusion that until I can acquire the appropriate topcoat for both the Pictish Shepherd and the mysterious creature I am temporarily stuck. (Oh if only I could go shopping!! <note wringing hands and serious whining!!> ) I could keep working on the understructures but the day is grey and raining, and I need to do something that is a bit more productive feeling (I already did the dishes.  That’s why I’m stuck sitting down again).

I should start thinking about what I want to do next as a picture. There were two shots that I looked at recently that caught my eye. One was a yak, but he has an odd feeling compositionally. On the other hand, the fur is so shaggy and has some interesting colouring to it that it would be fun to work on.

1 1

I could crop the shot.  I really do like that shaggy fringe. Let’s check out the 5×7 ratio and see what I can get.

23 4 2-4

It’s ok but doesn’t grab me as much as I thought it would. (It’s likely the rain) the other option is to just pick him up and move him to the left it would also get rid of that annoying tree in the centre of his head. That would likely work better as it would let me play with more shagginess. If I work from the original composition, I think I would like to erase some of the background trees, especially the one growing out of his head (as you can tell it’s really bugging me).  Let’s see if Photo pad, (that’s a free photo editing program) can do for a bit of deforestation.

5 5

I like the diagonals now and the weight of the composition feels better. I think it was the tree on the top of his head that was really bothering me but this looks much more comfortable and I added a bit of blue to the sky (we could use some of that blue sky here today.)

 

Oh No, as I was getting the second shot for you I just spotted another I had found earlier that could be cropped to be really fun too.

6 6 the original.

7 7

To get the composition I’m seeing in my head I have lost the 5×7 ratio. That would mean having a special mat cut which has gotten very expensive and isn’t easily available at the moment. (It’s much more frugal to work to a ratio that will fit in a mat and frame I already have so it’s 8×10 or 5×7 or one 4×6.) If you have an image, you can scale it up or down with a photocopier or use your computer and printer. With framing so expensive, if you can arrange to fit into a standard size it will help your costs if you are planning to sell your pictures. (I have not finished Xmass presents so I’m not selling yet! – it’s almost the end of APRIL!! I had better get working on those!)

8 8 this is 5×7 it’s not quite as intense but it still is very piercing. Yes, this would be fun.

Now let’s look at the other picture I was thinking about.

9 9

One of her relatives is a local resident. I’m not sure which neighbour has her as a non-paying renter that I have smelt but not seen yet this year. I particularly like this image but not, the cat food. So let’s see if I can get rid of that first.

10 10

not a great job but the offending cat food is gone. Yes, that’s better. Should it be a tighter focus?  That usually appeals to me. Better check.

11 11

I think I’m losing some of the small, fragile, youthfulness of the face when I get too close to her. It works compositionally but I don’t think it captures the hesitation and age of the upper one.

Now, which one should I choose? Let’s print out 5×7 versions of each and see what they look like. Which would you choose?

Have fun and keep felting!

Batch Editing Photos

Batch Editing Photos

One thing that a lot of us who share photos on the internet have in common, is that we can spend hours editing them. Almost every time I do a blog post, I have around 5 or 6 photos that I need to crop and shrink so they aren’t too big when they’re clicked on, and so they don’t take up all the storage memory.
A lot of the photo editing programs have ‘Batch Editing’, this allows you to open multiple photos and edit them all in exactly the same way very simply with just a few clicks, so you’re not having to sit there and manually alter every single one. It really saves a lot of time and effort. It is particularly useful if you have to shrink a lot of photos or have a batch that all need brightening up, or maybe you want to add a signature or apply an effect to create an abstract design….I found this really useful when working on photos for Ann’s abstract challenge a few months ago.


I’ve written a tutorial showing how to use the Batch Editing feature on Photoshop. I’ve only ever used Photoshop, so I can’t be sure that other programs do it the same way, but this should give you a good idea of what to look for on other programs. I’ve used shrinking as the example on the tutorial, because this is one I use most often. I know a lot of people like to add signatures or watermarks to their photos, batch editing is really good for this as long as you want the text to be exactly the same on each photo.

It’s always a good idea to have a practice first before recording an Action for batch editing. I usually keep notes for each effect applied, type size, or what the brightness and contrast levels were etc, then it’s easier to recreate. One thing that is important to point out, for certain effects, alterations or filters, for the results to be exactly the same, the resolution of the photos must be the same as each other and as the photo you originally worked out the Action on. If not, you could end up with type of different sizes for example.

I hope you find it useful and if you have any ideas for other tutorials, please let us know 🙂

PDF Tutorial: Batch Editing in Photoshop