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A flowery start to Spring with ‘Flowers’, an exhibition in London, UK – Part 1

Hello all!

I would like to talk to you about an exhibition I have been to recently: another one, I hear you say, this girl is always going around!

I wish it were even more so, but yes,  I am quite glad to have had the chance to go to a few exhibitions in the past months, as I am a strong believer of being inspired by other artists’ works and I am living in a city that has quite a lot to offer in terms of the arts scene, so why not offering a taste of this experience to you!

This exhibition was ‘Flowers’ at the Saatchi Gallery in London, United Kingdom, and it was about, what else, flowers in Contemporary art (also art inspired by flowers in ancient and past artists’ works!) and who does not love a bit of flowers in their art? I liked this one very much, as I love flowers and there was a bit more attention to textiles than in other exhibitions, though the very bulk of artworks were either oils or photos. Actually, it was fairly big and there was really plenty to see, so I am not complaining.

Here we are, ready to go into the Saatchi Gallery
The writing on the wall.

The works were split up into sections around common themes related to flowers, for instance still-life of flowers or flowers in connection to Medicine or flowers in connection to Science (Maths linked to flowers/plants, Technology inspired by flowers..) or Fashion inspired by flowers or Film posters with a flower theme, and so on.

Sophie Mess’s mural and canvas greeted us as the first paintings in the exhibition: hypertrophic overexpressive and non-apologetic blooms in spray paint that set a general mood of riotous flowery abundance.

Sophie Mess’s canvas took one wall, whereas her mural run along the first staircase to access the exhibition.

One of the first sections in the exhibition was about still life takes on the flower theme, as a Roots topic for the whole theme…see what they have done here, oh oh, root-plant. Obviously with a twist: here we have Amy Sheldon’s work with pressed flowers arranged in a pattern by the artist on led lighted board. It is a still life, in a sense, but exploding the concept with the arrangement. and the use of real flowers.

Amy Sheldon had a couple of works in this exhibition, made with seasonal pressed flowers for a better connection with nature.
A detail of the pressed flowers in Amy Sheldon’s work: it has been very hard to choose which one to photograph and show you, as they were all different and individually beautiful. They were all wild flowers picked in early Spring time and remaking a Springtime wild meadow in a way.

A few paintings by old Masters were present in this room:

An old master take on the Flower theme: a still life by Jean Baptiste Bosschaert (1667-1746)
Another old master’s still life oil painting? Nope, this is a still from a 70-minutes loop film! By rob and Nick Carter

 

This is a typical Art Nouveau panel where the woman is almost like a flower herself, a decoration, a pretty thing among pretty things, or you can read it as a flower/Spring goddess, celebration of feminine power and beauty: up to you. By Alphonse Mucha, ink on silk, it was firstly painted as watercolor on paper.

Among other serious paintings, I loved the quirkiest ones, such as this, showing that you can make art with anything at hand:

Margaret Mellis, crayon on envelope: I can imagine the situation where you will have crayons and a scrap of paper and just start doodling an idea, then getting quite taken by it and ending up with a full blown artwork..oh, pity for the media, how am I going to present it to my agent, oh, well, it was fun. As you can maybe see, the glass was a reflective one: almost none of the works exhibited with a glass in the frame had non-reflective glasses and the glare was awful. It was very hard to get nice photos with limited glare.

Actually, that is not a one-off artwork on the back of an envelope: Margaret Mellis was an English artist who explored mixed media and collage quite extensively in her long life (died aged 95), and she produced many more artworks on the back of envelopes! Well, why not, waste not want not, as they say. (She apparently loved beach combing to pick materials for sculptures as well.)

This modified photo by Mari Mahr is just one of the many that were on display: I would say photography lovers would have find this exhibition quite satisfying. I picked it because it was modified in a way that reminded me of some embroidered photos that I have seen recently, where the artist would use an old portrait photo and especially embroider on the face of the subject.

Mari Mahr wanted to talk about a sense of loss and longing modifying photos of her friend’s daughter, after she had moved far away.

There was a part about Sanderson floral fabrics: I think most of you have seen some of those floral patterned fabrics and never given it a thought, as I had done before this exhibition. They seem something that has always been there, a popular cultural given, fabric with one of those patterns will surely lurk in thousands of lofts, leftover from Auntie, or Granny’s favourite that she left me and I could not bear to throw, or you maybe have a quilt done with scraps of that..do not even try to deny it (“oh, no, not at all, it’s too chintzy for me, too much English rose for my Aunt, you’ve never known her, a tough modern lady my Granny!), I will not ask for confessions, it will remain our cosy secret, let’s just say that as soon as you will see the patterns in my photo and you will recognise it as an old (if a bit worn out) friend. And you can say it aloud, old, because those designs have been created about 160 years ago, firstly for wallpaper and then in time also for textiles by the Sanderson factory: talk about flowers that have become classics.

Do you recognise them? When I was a child and teen my bed cover was cotton fabric in one of those designs. Actually, one thing that I did not know and that I find amazing is that I live in an area of Greater London that is very close to the first Sanderson factories that produced those designs: life is weird that way.
A long tradition of Sanderson products.

There were also other pieces linked to flowers in the house, included a lovely small handpainted side table.

A small handpainted beauty by two of the group following William Morris’ s ideas, George and Annie Jack. This was used as embroidery table: please, excuse my drooling on the laptop.

And of course some pieces by William Morris:

No fabric section with a floral theme could be complete without William Morris. Block print on cotton.
The original drawing by William Morris for the tulip fabric above.
Some other pieces by the Morris movement.
The printing block for the tulip fabric, and a few tiles that look very modern.

Quite interesting to have a look at all those printing blocks and drawings and pieces with abstracted flowers: it just makes me itch for a go at thinking other printing blocks or stamps to use for surface design, with streamlined abstract flowers.  I just have a passion for abstract floral designs and feel you can never go wrong with one and will surely find the right time to use them! Actually, very recently I used the floral design stamp and stencil made when I took Ruth’s brilliant class on surface design to make hand painted wrapping paper to sell at a small market: so, it is all true, surface design is not just for embellishing your textiles, surface design is for life!

And, since I am keen on abstract art, I really enjoyed pieces like these of Gillian Ayers’ that made me wonder how one can make something similar in felt (it must be a lot of fun with those colours):

Very colourful oil paintings, clearly a strong influence of American Abstract Expressionism and Colour Field painting, according to the label

Or other abstract ones like this very interesting one with its definite choice of colours:

A bit of an unusual use of the space, with that third lower part almost blocking the sight of the huge flowers, and the oversized flowers all in the upper part of the painting. Gloss paint on aluminium. By Gary Hume
Oil on linen for this abstract painting by Alex Katz that feels somehow very classic. And with such simple lines and blocks of colours it would work well as a felt piece with  minimal embroidery, would it not?

But I have also a find for the charity shop hoarders: a cornucopia style sculpture by Ann Carrington, entirely made using kitchen implements and cutlery. I checked, it is.

Made entirely in spoons, forks, butter knives and whisks, sculpture for the charity shop lovers “I am not hoarding, I am collecting for my art project, honest”.
These oversized abstract flowers by Michael Craig-Martin seem also very enticing to me as inspiration for felt pieces. Screenprint on paper. Sorry for the very bad glare on the upper ones.
This one is to show that flowers can be dark on dark and still impressive! Have you ever thought about this combination of colours for flowers? Oil paint and oil stick on linen, metal substrate, exposed linen on the side. By Michelle Jung.

Another screenprint that I found very interesting as inspiration for other medias or functions (wearables or objects or..) is this one by Yayoi Kusama:

I could see a handbag with this design, or a fabric for a dress, or maybe a scarf or a brooch. An artwork in felt would be quite nice too! How would one make the polka dot patterns in felt, though, or the tiny cracked effect in the background?

And here we finally come to some textile pieces, with these embroidered flowers:

Embroidery silks on cotton calico by Martin Maloney.
Sorry for the weird angles of the photos: I was really having to take them so quickly, as the exhibition was packed. This is ‘Pink Cloth’, 2024. I really like how the embroidery is totally non-realistic while using stitches that have traditionally been used for very realistic rendition of flowers!
‘Yellow Vase’, 2024 by Martin Maloney.

A textile piece with a wow effect, this one was all made of individual elements in different sizes all connected by streaming yarn dangling from the various bits:

This textile piece by Anne von Freyburg has been inspired by an 18th century still life, so we go full circle back to the beginning of the exhibition! Acrylic ink, synthetic fabric and PVC fabric for the textile painting; fabrics, sequin fabric, hand-embroidery, polyester wadding and hand-dyed tassel fringes on canvas for the tapestry.

I managed to take photos of a couple of the elements in the big cloud of colours:

More attention to textiles in other artworks before going to the section dedicated to flowers in fashion:

I found this oil portrait interesting for the attention to textile details, a modern response to the old Master’s portraits of brocaded ladies colliding with a Judith iconography that feels a bit unsettling. By Wole Lagunju.

And here we are at the fashion show:

An example of hand-embroidery changing face to a casual pair of Converse trainers. By Cristina Alcantara of Camomille Creations

There was an area with a big turnable display on creations by the famous Finnish company Marimekko, very popular since the Fifties:

Marimekko style is hardly difficult to spot, with typical bright bold colours and big abstract shapes.
The display for Marimekko designs held different garments in different patterns and colours.

And here we come to British fashion icons Mary Quant and Vivienne Westwood: one with a very abstract idea of flowers, the other with an exuberant use of flowers for contrast. Two very different periods in London, two different ideas of fashion.

Mary Quant’s miniskirts in the Fifties, and a long hooded Kaftan in the Seventies, but the abstract flowers remained a motif in her collections throughout her career.
Another of Mary Quant’s garments, along with original posters advertising Mary Quant’s fashion.
I doubt there is someone out there who has not seen at least once in life the iconic Mary Quant’s flower shape or some item reusing that shape in some way, as it is so effective.
I bet you can find similar jewelry today, that flower shape is simply inescapable.

Vivienne Westwood is a different proposition:

Crochet is really good for flower effects on wedding dresses.
I am not exactly sure when one is supposed to wear the first one (with platform sandals), but I really loved the pure Vivienne Westwood look of the second one with the ballgown size of the skirt and the deadly cute kitten on the t-shirt.
This one and the next are not actually her creations, but made for her collection quite recently by Andreas Kronthaler. This one is a bit like how I would think a costume for Flora (goddess of Spring) may look like if you’d need one for a party. (I guess that you can take off the flower crown/headband/whatever while on public transport to get to the party, and then put it back on)
This is also pretty recent, and I would have thought not: does it not feel very 80-90s to you?

I have many more things to show you about this section and the rest of the exhibition, and I feel that this post is already a bit packed with images: I will stop here for now and get back to you with the second part of the exhibition in my next post.

(Plus, it is too late in the night to go on writing, the foxes are screaming outside, and it just feels time to go to bed!)

I hope that you liked the exhibition so far!

 

 

kiki.textile.art

http://www.kikistextileart.com

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